The watch was approaching 9 o’clock when we turned up at the parking lot of the Ajanta Caves. The January morning was nothing short of perfection – a medley of brisk air and mellowed sun. We were aiming for the first shuttle bus (at 9 AM) to reach the main entrance of the caves. The terminus is a short walk from the parking spot. The souvenir stalls flanking the paved road were still shut. The eateries, being the exception, which were already up and running, as ‘tadka’ smells made rounds in the area.
On reaching the depot, we found a handful of visitors already queuing for the bus. The buses are operated by Maharashtra State Tourism Development Corporation. Although air-conditioned, the buses have seen better days. Time had moved past nine. Waiting for the journey to start, our restlessness was evenly matched by the tardiness of the drivers and conductors, who were all too busy chatting. Apparently, the bus will not leave until filled to the brim. Thankfully, a few groups arrived shortly and put an end to our ordeal. Armed with Rs. 20 worth of tickets, we finally hopped on the rusty bus.
After driving for nearly fifteen minutes through the winding roads, the bus dropped us near the ticket counter. We had booked our passes online from the website of the Archaeological Survey of India, giving us a head start over our co-visitors. After going through mandatory frisking and bag-checking, we reached the foothill. Before us lay a colossal rocky stairway. The towering stairs will surely test the might of your knees. By the time we reached the top, we were literally huffing and puffing. As we hold our horses, we were stopped dead in our tracks by what unfolded before us – just like it did to Captain John Smith some 200 years back.
(Re)Discovery of Ajanta Caves:
Summer 1819. A British hunting party, led by Captain John Smith, was chasing a tiger deep inside the forest near Aurangabad in the Deccan. As they tracked the pug marks, they ended up near a horseshoe-shaped amphitheatre of cliffs across the dried bed of the Waghora River. The soldiers were transfixed to find the paw prints fading inside what seemed to be a man-made facade cut straight into the rock face.
Curious, cautious, and wielding torches of dried grass, the troop proceeded inside one of the caves. They were welcomed by the skeletal remains and debris heaped inside by predators and scavengers over the years. It was clear that the caves were long forsaken, and no one had set foot inside them for centuries. Soon their eyes adjusted to the darkness, and they flashed their torches on the walls. What they saw left them flabbergasted. The walls were bedecked with murals, showcasing courtly scenes as well as monks in saffron. And thus, Ajanta woke up from her deep slumber, like the princess from the fairy tale who was awakened by the touch of a golden stick.
In the decades that followed, the caves of Ajanta were frequented by archaeologists, Indologists, and other curious onlookers. We, too, followed the footsteps of Smith and reached the caves which are indeed one of the greatest wonders of the ancient world.
History of Ajanta Caves:
The topography of western India is dominated by the Western Ghats, the basalt rock of which is suitable for carving. Hence, the region has the largest concentration of rock-cut caves in India, dotted with no less than 1000 caves.
The tradition of rock-cut caves had originated in present-day Bihar where the Mauryan rulers excavated the Barabar and Nagarjuni caves. Gradually, the rock-cut activity shifted to what is now modern Maharashtra. Here, the caves at Bhaja were first to be excavated in 200 BCE.
The caves in Ajanta were carved over a large period of time. Some of the caves (such as 8, 9, 10, 12, 13, and 30) were dug out 200 years before the Christ was born. Rest of the caves were completed by the 7th century CE. Clearly, the Ajanta Caves were gradually excavated for a span of 900 years.
The earliest caves in Ajanta followed the Hinayana tradition, set apart by depiction of Buddha through symbols such as Bodhi tree, stupa, and empty throne. The caves are simple and austere toeing the line of Hinayana faith as it was considered unacceptable to depict the actual person of Buddha. The Satavahana dynasty had made significant contribution to the construction of the Ajanta Caves during this early phase.
It was during the reign of the Vakataka king Harisena (c. 475-500 CE), ruler of the Deccan, Ajanta reached its zenith. According to the 7th-century Chinese traveller-scholar, Xuanzang, Ajanta, with its “lofty halls and deep chambers painted with great fineness, and stretching through the rock, storey above storey, up the scarped precipice through tiers of peaks and sheer summits”, was not just a centre of great art and craftsmanship: it was also a major centre of learning.
The major patrons of the Ajanta Caves were the uber rich mercantile communities who organised themselves into powerful trade guilds.
By the 10th century CE, the monks had abandoned the caves. Thereafter, Ajanta remained camouflaged for over a thousand years.
About the Ajanta Caves:
The Buddhists were the first to carve out caves from rock. The Buddhist caves fall in two categories – chaitya or prayer halls, and vihara or residential complex for the monks. The caves were built as ‘vassa-vasa’ or abode of monks during the rainy season. Ajanta was a significant part of this Buddhist heritage of rock-cut caves.
The walls of the Ajanta Caves are embellished with some of the most splendid and ancient paintings in Buddhist art. The murals illustrate the Jataka stories distinguished by impeccable elegance and grace. The painting method of Ajanta murals is comparable to the European fresco technique. The rough cave walls were the artists’ canvas. It was first prepared by splashing a rough plaster of clay, cow dung, and rice husks. It was then coated with lime paste for creating a smooth work surface. The artists then skilfully added the dark outlines of the figures, which were filled with a palette of only 6 colours. The pigments the artists used came from natural resources such as red and yellow ochre, crushed green malachite, blue lapis lazuli etc.
The Ajanta Caves are also treasure trove of marvellous Buddhist sculptures. Most of the sculptures are a later addition and mostly depicts the Buddha, Bodhisattvas such as Padmapani and Bajrapani, and Buddhist deities like Hariti and Jambhala.
What to see in the Ajanta Caves:
Ajanta has 30 caves in total. While some of the caves are teeming with exceptional artworks, a few adhere to the Hinayana belief of austerity. A couple of caves are even impenetrable. So, to help you plan your trip to the Ajanta Caves, we have listed below the must-visit caves and attached a short description of each. A short reminder: the caves in Ajanta are numbered in accordance of their location and not as per their antiquity. Moreover, the murals are gradually decaying and spotting them in the darkness is an arduous job. Then again, that’s the joy of Ajanta!
Cave 1:
It was a vihara, sculpted by the Chalukyas in 600-642 CE. The main attraction is the hypnotic depiction of Padmapani Avalokitesvara, painted on the left side of the sanctum.
The walls are decorated with fragments of scenes depicting the Mahajanaka Jataka, Sankhapala Jataka, Shibi Jataka, and Chhampeya Jataka. On the ceiling, you can spot a foreign ruler and his queen, often believed to be the Persian king Khusrau and his wife Shireen.
Cave 2:
It was also a vihara and a contemporary of Cave 1. The notable murals here depict the early life of Buddha, miracle of Buddha in Sravasti, Vidura Pandita Jataka, Hamsa Jataka, Purna Avadana Jataka, and Khantivadi Jataka.
It also houses stunning sculptures of Jambhala, Hariti, Padmanidhi, and Sankhanidhi.
Cave 4:
This is the largest cave in Ajanta. Devoid of any mural, it has a statue of Gautama Buddha in ‘dharma chakra’ mudra, flanked by two Bodhisattvas.
Cave 6:
It is the only double-storied cave in Ajanta. The sanctum in the ground floor has an idol of Buddha in ‘Abhaya’ mudra, while that on the upper floor has Buddha in ‘dhrama chakra’ mudra.
Cave 9:
It is a chaitya or prayer hall. It is one of the oldest caves in Ajanta, and believed to be dug out between 90-70 BCE. Thus, it was completed long before Augustus started rebuilding Rome.
It is characterised by ornamental facade and a horse-shoe shaped window. The statues of Buddha and Bodhisattvas at the entrance of 9th cave are later additions as it dates back to the era when Hinayana Buddhism was in prevalence.
Cave 10:
This cave is a contemporary of Cave 9. The paintings here are some of the oldest ones in Ajanta.
The Shyama Jataka and Chhadanta Jataka are portrayed here.
Cave 15:
It is unique as the cave has an astylar hall (without pillars supporting the roofs). The sanctum has a statue of the Buddha notably without fly-whisk bearers.
Cave 16:
It was built during the reign of Harisena, the Vakataka ruler. The notable murals illustrate the renowned “Dying Princess” and the early life of Buddha.
Cave 17:
This cave possesses the highest volume of artworks. Not an inch of the walls are spared from the lively paintings. It was commissioned by Varahadeva, the minister of Harisena.
Two famous female figures are depicted here – Krishna Apsara on the outer walls and “Lady with the Mirror” inside.
The murals here illustrate the Vessantara Jataka, Mahakapi Jataka, Chhadanta Jataka, Mriga Jataka, Simhala Avadana Jataka, Matri Poshaka Jataka, Sutasoma Jataka, Mahisha Jataka, Test of Sariputta, Sending Out of Nalagiri, and Gopa – Rahula with Buddha.
Cave 19:
It is a chaitya, the facade of which is adorned with ornate sculptures of Buddha, Bodhisattva, Naga, Gandharva, Kinnara, and so on.
Instead of murals, this cave is notable for impressive sculptures which represent the late-Gupta style.
Cave 26:
Built in the 7th century CE, this was the last cave to be excavated in Ajanta. It was also a chaitya, used by the monks for prayers.
The facade has a multitude of Buddha sculptures in varied postures. The chaitya window is flanked by two ‘yakshas’ with two Buddha statues in ‘Varada’ mudra on both sides.
Inside. The hall is supported by 18 columns with different capitals atop. The circumambulatory path is covered with a plethora of sculptures depicting Buddha. Among them, the most fascinating one is Buddha’s Mahaparinirvana, carved on the southern wall.
Important FAQs:
Where are the Ajanta Caves located?
The Ajanta Caves are located in Aurangabad (presently called Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar) district of Maharashtra. The distance between the two is roughly 100 km, covered in 2.5 hours by road. However, the road to Ajanta is in bad shape.
How can I reach the Ajanta Caves?
By air: The nearest airport is Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar, which is connected well with New Delhi, Mumbai, and Hyderabad. There are no direct flights from Kolkata. You have to opt for connecting flights via New Delhi or Mumbai.
By train: The nearest rail station to the Ajanta Caves is Bhusaval Junction. Bhusaval is 60 km away from Ajanta and it takes 1.5 hours by road to reach Ajanta. From Kolkata, you can opt for Pune Duronto Express (12222) and Gitanjali Express (12859).
What is the best time to visit Ajanta?
November to March is the best time to visit the Ajanta Caves. The weather remains cool and pleasant, perfect for exploring the rocky terrains of the caves. Although, expect hordes of tourists during this time.
The monsoon months (July to September) turns the surrounding lush. The Waghora river, along with the waterfall, comes to life. Visiting the Ajanta Caves during the rainy season provides a glimpse of how the Buddhist monks lived in their sanctuary. However, the weather remains hot and sultry, and the incessant rainfall makes travelling difficult.
What are the timings of the Ajanta Caves?
The caves remain open from 9 AM to 5 PM. The Ajanta Caves remain closed on Mondays.
What are the ticket prices of the Ajanta Caves?
The entry fee is INR 40 for Indian, SAARC, and BIMSTEC visitors. Other foreigners need to pay INR 600. Tickets are cheaper if bought online (INR 35 and INR 550 respectively). Also, online tickets help you to jump the long queue at the ticket counters.
How long does it take to explore the caves?
You will need at least 4 hours to admire the caves.
Where can I stay in Ajanta?
There are only two suitable accommodations in Ajanta, both being MTDC properties. First, the Ajanta T-Point Resort, which is located near the entrance gate of the caves. There are only 5 cottages here. Booking a room here is virtually impossible as it is coveted for its prime location.
Secondly, the MTDC Ajanta Resort at Fardapur. It is barely a kilometre from the caves. We stayed in the Fardapur resort. As in most of the government accommodation, the rooms here are basic but serves its purpose.
Where can I eat in Ajanta?
Reliable restaurants are scarce in Ajanta. You have to rely on the in-house restaurants of the MTDC resorts. In addition, you can dine in the MTDC Foothill Restaurant situated just near the Ajanta Caves ticket counter.
Places to visit near Ajanta:
Ellora: Home to the magnificent Kailasa Temple along with other 33 caves which are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is also a sacred pilgrimage as one of the 12 Jyotirlingas, Grishnesvara, is situated here.
Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar/Aurangabad: Noted for the Aurangabad Caves and the medieval era Bibi Ka Maqbara.
Lonar: The site of Lonar Lake, which was created in the Pleistocene Epoch by a meteorite.
Things to remember:
- No flash photography is allowed inside the caves.
- You need to enter the caves barefoot.
- Its nearly pitch-dark inside the caves. Take a torchlight with you for locating the murals.
- Maintain silence inside the caves.
- Wear comfortable shoes as you need to climb numerous steep stairs.
- Don’t forget to bring drinking water with you.
- Food is not allowed inside.
The Ajanta Caves are not just meant to be seen, they are intended to be experienced. Plan your visit thoughtfully, take your time exploring each cave, and allow yourself to truly absorb the history etched into its walls.
For more such heritage sights across India, check out our blogs on Hampi and Khajuraho.
