Meghalaya is undeniably one of the most beautiful states in India. Endowed with unbridled natural beauty, Meghalaya is home to some of the most magnificent waterfalls in India. In addition, the state boasts a few of the longest subterranean cave systems in the world. It is also characterized by unbelievable landscapes such as canyons, natural pools, rolling hills, and so on. Meghalaya’s bio-diversity is also off the charts. From bioluminescent mushrooms to luxuriant orchids, from Clouded Leopard to Hoolock Gibbon – Meghalaya is truly a biodiversity hotspot.
For this trip, we aimed to experience the monsoon magic in Meghalaya and concentrated mainly on Jowai and Cherrapunji areas. We wanted to explore the Living Root Bridges and waterfalls in their monsoon avatar. It took us 7 full days to cover these parts. Here is our 7-day itinerary for experiencing monsoon Meghalaya.
Table of Contents
Day 1: Reaching Meghalaya and exploring the monoliths
It was a sultry morning when we alighted from the train in Guwahati. Diving past the maze of Guwahati’s infamous traffic, we finally crossed the state border and touched down in Meghalaya. After a few moments in Meghalaya, the weather started to change. Clear blue skies became overcast with rain clouds, and a cool breeze replaced the uncomfortable heat and humidity. Soon, it began to drizzle.
In the afternoon, we reached Nartiang, a nondescript village renowned for its cluster of Monoliths. Monoliths are a common sight in the Khasi and Jaintia hills. However, Nartiang hosts the largest assembly of Megalithic stones. Hundreds of Monoliths stand tall in Nartiang with their origin shrouded in mystery.
In Nartiang, Monoliths consist of both Menhirs or tall stones and Dolmens or flat stones. Moreover, the tallest Monolith of Meghalaya is located here.
After watching a spectacular sunset, we left Nartiang and drove towards Amlarem. The first day in Meghalaya ended with a beautiful sunset and magical sky colours.
Day 2: Visiting the Living Root Bridge of Kudeng Rim
The second morning made us realise why Meghalaya is called the ‘Abode of Clouds’. The entire town of Amlarem was covered in a thick veil of clouds. We couldn’t see anything from the balcony, while clouds continued to float around us.
With minimal visibility owing to the dense cloud cover, we started for Kudeng Rim, our destination for the second day. The road was bumpy, and the rain made it worse. However, with rain, the cloud dissipated. We enjoyed the surroundings, which shuffled between little villages and unkempt greenery.
Once we reached Kudeng Rim, the clouds once again clouded our vision. The hamlet was barely visible thanks to the dense cloud. We found a lone shack, where we recharged ourselves with piping hot tea. Afterwards, we embarked on a hike to reach the Living Root Bridge of the village.
The hiking trail consists of around 700 boulder-strewn steps, which the continuous rainfall had rendered slippery. Climbing down these rugged stairs in the rain was indeed a knotty affair. One slip, and you could be tumbling down like Jack and Jill. We tiptoed on the steps diligently. The trail runs through a thicket. A canopy of sky-kissing trees sheltered us from the rain, while vibrant butterflies, eerie spiders, crawling snails, and mushrooms accompanied us on our walk.
After an hour or so, we finally reached the Living Root Bridge. A fantastic specimen of bio-engineering, the Living Root Bridges are created by the Khasi and Jaintia tribes by recurring inosculation of the aerial roots of Ficus elastica trees. They play a pivotal role in maintaining rural connectivity in Meghalaya. The Living Root Bridge of Kudeng Rim is indeed exceptional, with an obscure waterfall rippling beneath.
Later, we had lunch at the tea shop with Jadoh Rice, which tasted heavenly following the intense hike.
Day 3: Exploring waterfalls in and around Jowai
The rain, which started last evening, continued in the morning with its full might. With no sign of slowing down, we decided to arm ourselves with rain ponchos and umbrellas and venture out. After grabbing a quick breakfast at a roadside stall, we continued driving towards the Phe Phe Falls. The road leading to the Phe Phe Falls darts through the lush Jaintia Hills. The carpet of greenery is dotted with colourful wildflowers, which was a treat to the eyes. You also need to cross a river to reach the starting point of the hike. As we visited during the monsoon, the river was overflowing and it brought back memories of crossing a truant river in the Zanskar Valley of Ladakh.
In Jaintia dialect, the word ‘Phe Phe’ means paradise. And truly, the Phe Phe Falls is nothing short of a paradise. The moderate hike to Phe Phe Falls takes around 20-30 minutes. Since it rained heavily the entire day before, Phe Phe was vaulting over the sky-high cliff with all its fury. The scene before us was the exact opposite of what we generally see in the photos of Phe Phe. The volume of water had increased manifold, and the usually calm and blue water of the pool below had turned into a frenzied whirlpool of muddy waters.
Our next stop was the Thlumuwi Falls, which is located right on the Jowai – Amlarem Road and can be easily spotted from the highway.
Post-lunch, we went to the Krang Suri Falls, which is easily one of the most picturesque waterfalls in Meghalaya. If Phe Phe is heavenly, then Krang Suri is magical. Stashed in the lap of a thick forest of Jaintia Hills, this charming fall is created when a gentle river springs over a ledge, and thus forms a delicate curtain of rippling water over a cave. The sudden drop, as usual, creates a bluish-green natural pool where visitors revel during the sunny days. However, since it was monsoon, the water in the pool was murky.
Day 4: Exploring Rangthylliang and Reaching Sohra
The fourth morning in Meghalaya started with a sunny sky. Today, we bade Amlarem adieu and left for Sohra. On the way, we stopped at Rangthylliang, a village that boasts not one, but three Living Root bridges. One of them is regarded as the longest Living Root Bridge in the world.
Once again, it was time for a hike. In Rangthylliang, the steps are far better than those in Kudeng Rim. Although, compared to 700 stairs in Kudeng Rim, here we had to climb down roughly 1500 stairs. The path trails through a forest, and we can spot various wildflowers, enormous butterflies, a variety of mushrooms, and so on.
When we arrived, we were captivated by the scene before us. It was as if we were in a forest of enchantment. Every corner that our eyes could see was painted in brilliant hues of green. Trees soared high, creating an awning for us. Birds babbled ceaselessly, while two waterfalls cascade with thundering sounds.
Three Living Root Bridges stand in this backdrop, one of them being the oldest and one the longest. We enjoyed our lunch near one of the waterfalls, and this was truly one of the most unforgettable moments of our Meghalaya trip.
Afterwards, we drove to Sohra and reached there in the evening.
Day 5: Scouting the caves and waterfalls of Sohra
The fifth day started with visiting the Mawsmai Cave. Meghalaya boasts a fascinating subterranean cave system characterized by unique geological formations and fossils. Large numbers of caves are found in the Khasi, Garo and Jaintia Hills. However, the majority of them are off-limits for the tourists.
The Mawsmai Cave, famed for its limestone formations, is not very long and easily accessible. Hence, it is quite popular among visitors. Despite of not being a professional spelunker, you can experience the amazing cave system of Meghalaya by exploring the Mawsmai Cave.
After the caves, it was time to explore the amazing waterfalls of Sohra.
We started with the twin waterfalls of Mawsawdong and Diengdoh. The rippling water of Mawsawdong leaps over a stepped rock and creates a crystal-clear natural pool at its base. Mawsawdong is also one of the few waterfalls of Meghalaya where you can walk behind the stream of flowing water.
On the other hand, Diengdoh is a dainty cascade, prancing over a rocky ledge. The wispy water of Diengdoh resembles a thin veil of sparkling water.
Next, we visited the serene Lyngksiar Falls. It is named after a rare orchid with golden petals called Tiew Lyngksiar, which blooms only for three months in the jungle surrounding the waterfall.
The waterfall is created by a series of plunging streams, with two larger courses racing to the ground thus making an expansive pool with sparkling water.
Lastly, we went to the Nohkalikai Falls, which is arguably the most popular waterfall in Meghalaya. It is the tallest plunge waterfall in India and the fourth highest in the world. Descending from a jaw-dropping height of 340 meters/1,115 feet, this natural wonder is a sight to behold.
Day 6: Experiencing monsoon Meghalaya
We woke up at the crack of dawn with a thunderstorm and heavy rainfall lashing outside. The downpour had started the previous evening and still raging on. Thankfully, the storm subsided after what seemed an eternity, and the rain pitter-pattered. The overnight deluge implied that the waterfalls of Sohra would be overflowing. Readily, we set out for two of the most sensational waterfalls in Meghalaya:
First, we went to the Seven Sisters Falls, also called the Nohsngthiang Falls. The Seven Sisters plummets from a dizzying height of 315 meters/1,033 ft with an average width of 70 meters/240 ft.
Following the spate of monsoon rains, the falls channelled its seven streams which nose-dived into the thick forest below. The seven streams of Nohsngthiang are said to represent the seven states of northeastern India, hence it received the epithet of Seven Sisters. The magnificent sight of the seven rapids gliding down the cliff is simply unforgettable.
Next, it was the Kynrem Fall’s turn. The road leading to Kynrem is scenic, punctuated with many rain-fed streams. Due to the incessant rainfall, these obscure rapids were bursting with gushing water.
Tucked away in the lush greenery of the East Khasi Hills, Kynrem Falls is the 7th highest waterfall in India. Much like the other waterfalls of Meghalaya, Kynrem’s real avatar is witnessed in the monsoon season.
Post-lunch, the weather improved and we headed to the two other breath-taking waterfalls:
The Wei Sedong is a stunning three-tiered waterfall. Nestled in lush greenery, the cascading water of the Wei Sawdong creates three natural pools, renowned for their bluish-green water.
In a word, the Wei Sawdong Falls is divine. Our hearts skipped a beat at the very first sight of this heavenly waterfall.
Located near the Wei Sadong Falls, the Dainthlen Falls is a popular attraction of Cherrapunji. A river flows over the rocky, cratered table land, and leaps over an 80-foot gorge into the dense forest below thus creating the feisty Dainthlen Falls.
Day 7: Garden of Caves & More Waterfalls
A dense cloud had engulfed the town of Cherrapunji on our last day. Today, our first stop was the Garden of Caves. Spread across an area of 7.5 hectares, this park is characterized by a stunning cave system, magical waterfalls, intriguing rock structures, and unique limestone formations.
Some of the must-see spots in the Garden of Caves are Ka Synrang Syiem or King’s Cave, Sum Syiem Falls, Ki Stieh Maw or Warrior Rocks, U Mawdohnud (heart-shaped rock), Arshdad Falls, and Riat Umlwai Falls.
After a scrumptious lunch, we headed to two of the remaining waterfalls in Cherrapunji:
The Janailar Falls is another beautiful waterfall, with its stream of water rushing down a cliff. The area also has one cave system, which has another waterfall inside.
Lastly, we visited the Prut Falls. The stream of the Wah Urwan River jumps off a hilly cliff to create this dreamy waterfall. Prut is also one of the few waterfalls of Meghalaya, where you can see it from behind the falls.
Important FAQs:
How can I reach Meghalaya?
By air: Meghalaya’s airport is situated at Umroi, 30 km from the city centre of Shillong. Two flights from Kolkata fly to Shillong every day except Sunday. However, the flights often get cancelled due to bad weather.
We would advise taking a direct flight to Guwahati, as they fly regularly on time.
From Guwahati, Shillong is a 3-hour drive (around 100 km).
By train: Guwahati is the nearest rail station to Shillong. You can reach Guwahati by 12345 Saraighat Express, 15959 Kamrup Express, 13181 Kaziranga Express, and 13175 Kanchanjungha Express.
By road: You can get a shared taxi for Shillong from Guwahati’s Paltan Bazar at INR 300-400 per head. You can also book cabs, the price of which varies between INR 3,500 to INR 4,500.
Where to stay in Meghalaya:
In Sohra/Cherrapunji: Polo Orchid Resort, Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort, Jiva Resort, Saimika Resort, Lamisa Inn.
In Amlamem: Cord’z Inn Guest House.
Where to eat in Meghalaya:
In Sohra/Cherrapunjee: Orange Roots, Golden Spoon.
In Amlarem: Kibo Restaurant.
What is the best time to visit Meghalaya:
Meghalaya can be visited around the year. If your goal is to witness the monsoon magic and waterfalls in their full glory, you ought to plan for the months of June to September. However, take necessary precautions as monsoon rain in Meghalaya is on a whole different level. We visited in the second week of June, and we experienced both rain and sun.
If you want to experience the clear pristine waters of the Umngot River or the natural pools, you should visit during winter (December to February). However, water will be scarce in the waterfalls as most of them rely on rainwater.
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