It was an overcast afternoon when we chanced upon the garden of Monoliths in the small village of Nartiang. Plenty of Monoliths are huddled up, and the adjoining sky-high trees are a sanctuary for them. The place looked every bit mystical, with the cloudy sky adding to the drama. And soon the rain followed, and how transcendent the drenched Nartiang Monoliths looked! We knew we had hit a jackpot. With waterfalls and living root bridges galore, this unique archaeological site was indeed a part of the unseen Meghalaya.
In fact, the Khasi and Jaintia Hills are dotted with countless Monoliths. You will come across countless isolated Monoliths standing atop the hills. They are indeed a common sight in and around the town of Cherrapunji. However, Nartiang is home to the largest assembly of Monoliths, and this sets Nartiang apart from the other sites. The Nartiang Monoliths are relics of the bygone era, standing as a testament to the tribal heritage of the Jaintia Hills.
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History of the Nartiang Monoliths:
To scramble the origin of the Monoliths, we must seek the refuge of the local lores. In the past, Nartiang did not have a market. The nearest market was situated in Raliang. These Monoliths were erected to commemorate the shifting of the market from Raliang to Nartiang.
According to the legend, a Jaintia ruler Luh Lyngshor requested an old woman of Raliang to provide a bamboo for shielding himself from the rain. The old woman refused, asking him to use the giant stone slab of the market to cover himself as he was a strong man. The Jaintia ruler heeded her advice and carried the stone from Raliang to Nartiang. This marked the transition of the market from Raliang to Nartiang.
There is another version of this folklore. A giant named Mar Phalyngki requested the youngest daughter of Raliang’s chieftain to borrow him an umbrella. The girl wanted to test the giant’s fabled strength. She told him to lift the huge stone of the market and use it as an umbrella. Thanks to his brute prowess, the giant lifted the stone and carried it over his head. However, as the rain had stopped before he reached Nartiang, he placed the stone inside a forest. People passing by the stone could hear the noises of a thriving marketplace. Hence, the chief of Nartiang decreed that the stone was sacred and subsequently, the forest was cleared to set up a market.
Historically, the Jaintiapur kingdom extended from Sylhet in modern Bangladesh to the hilly terrains of Meghalaya. Nartiang used to serve as the summer capital of the Jaintia rulers thanks to its temperate climate and location in the hills. These Monoliths are believed to have been erected between 1500 CE to 1835 CE.
About the Nartiang Monoliths:
The Garden of Monoliths in Nartiang is a tribute to the tribal culture and heritage of the Jaintia people. The majority of these Monoliths were erected around half a millennium ago, with stones added in the mid-19th century.
According to archaeologists, the Nartiang Monoliths may have served as Megalithic tombs. The Jaintia as well as the Khasi tribes erected single standing stones or alignments of stones to honour those who have passed away. The columnar stones or Menhirs were dedicated to men, while the flat horizontal stones or Dolmens were meant for the female ancestors.
The tallest Menhir is 8 metres high and 18 inches thick. It is attributed to the giant Mar Phalyngki. In all probability, the tallest Menhir was set up in memory of someone important in the clan. The rest of the memorial stones were added for other members of the clan over the years. Gradually, the site turned into a marketplace, and the stone slabs were utilized as stalls to display and sell various articles.
At present, the ground is mostly used by the village youths to play football. You can also find local girls and women chatting and strolling down the winding road.
In the olden days, the Nartiang Monoliths were a site for the weekly bazaar, a memorial, and political gatherings. Today, the Monoliths serve no real purpose except relics from the glorious past of the Jaintiapur kingdom.
Important FAQs:
How can I reach Nartiang?
By air: Meghalaya’s airport is situated at Umroi, 30 km from the city centre of Shillong. Two flights from Kolkata fly to Shillong every day except Sunday. However, the flights often get cancelled due to bad weather.
We would advise taking a direct flight to Guwahati, as they fly regularly on time.
From Shillong, Nartiang is 60 km away and it takes 2 hours by road to reach Nartiang. From Guwahati, Nariang is 156 km away. You can cover the distance in 4 hours.
By train: Guwahati is the nearest rail station to Shillong. You can reach Guwahati by 12345 Saraighat Express, 15959 Kamrup Express, 13181 Kaziranga Express, and 13175 Kanchanjungha Express.
By road: You can hire a car for Nartiang from Guwahati’s Paltan Bazar. It will cost you around INR 3,500 to INR 4,000.
What is the timing of the Nartiang Monoliths?
The Nartiang Monoliths are preserved by the Archaeological Survey of India. It remains open from 6 AM to 6 PM.
What is the entry fee for the Nartiang Monoliths?
No ticket is required to enter the Garden of Monoliths.
What is the best time to visit Nartiang?
Nartiang Monoliths can be visited around the year.
Where can I stay in Nartiang?
There is no hotel in Nartiang. You can stay either in Jowai or Amlarem. Alternatively, you can visit Nartiang as part of a day trip from Shillong.
Is there any place to eat in Nartiang?
No, there is no proper eatery here.
Is there any dress code for Nartiang Monoliths?
There is no dress code for Nartiang Monoliths. However, since they are memorial stones, we suggest dressing modestly here.
I wanted to thank you both for your excellent advice and itineraries. I am heading to Jampui in Tripura tomorrow thanks to having read your 7-day itinerary 2 weeks ago whilst in Delhi. I may be one of the only foreign travelers to follow you but will certainly spread the word. Maybe someday you will want to ask me about where I live, which is in the south of Turkiye! Please feel free…
This is so good to know! We are absolutely thrilled to hear that you are visiting Jampui. India is so much more beyond the usual Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur. We hope that you will love Tripura as we did. Do let us know how you felt in Tripura.
PS We would love to visit your beautiful country Turkiye soon 🙂