Nestled in the heart of Central Asia, Uzbekistan is a mesmerizing blend of ancient history, vibrant culture, and warm hospitality that captivates every traveller. As you journey through this land of legends, you’ll walk the paths once traversed by merchants along the Silk Road, marvel at the intricate mosaics of Samarkand, and immerse yourself in the timeless allure of Bukhara and Khiva.
But Uzbekistan is more than just its stunning architecture and historic landmarks; it’s a country where the past and present harmoniously intertwine. The friendly smiles of locals, the aroma of freshly baked bread wafting through bustling bazaars, and the rhythmic tunes of traditional music tell stories of a rich and enduring culture.
In this carefully curated Uzbekistan itinerary, we’ll guide you through this country’s treasures, unravelling its ancient tales, showcasing its vibrant traditions, and introducing you to its hospitable people who make every moment unforgettable. Get ready to embark on a journey like no other. Let’s go!
Table of Contents
Day 1: Flying in Tashkent
From New Delhi, we took the afternoon Uzbekistan Airways flight to Tashkent. Three hours passed in a jiffy as we flew over the snow-capped peaks of the Hindukush mountains, captivated by their majestic beauty.
Tashkent welcomed us with a cool breeze and drizzle, a sharp contrast to Delhi’s scorching heat. Seamless immigration was followed by:
- Easy currency exchange at the kiosk just beside the immigration and near the baggage claim.
- Purchasing a Ucell sim card with 40 GB data for UZS 40,000.
- Installing the Yandex Go app.
- Book a Yandex cab to reach the hotel.
After checking in at the hotel, we strolled in the surrounding area and later dined at Shashlik and Somsa (as suggested by the receptionist of our hotel). The food was one of the best that we experienced during our stay in Uzbekistan.
Day 2: Exploring Tashkent and boarding the night train to Khiva
Laced with fall colours and a nip in the air, Tashkent looked resplendent in the morning. We took a Yandex cab and went to the following sites:
Hazrat Imam Complex:
It comprises of monuments such as Barak Khan Madrassah, Tilla Sheikh Mosque, and mausoleum of Abu Bakr Kaffal. It is also home to Mui Mubarak Library, which houses the world’s oldest Quran.
Kukeldash Madrassa and Juma Mozque :
Kukeldash Madrassah is the largest madrassah and one of the most famous historical spots in Tashkent. The Juma Mosque is right next to the Madrassa.
Chorsu Bazaar:
We visited Tashkent’s bustling bazaar and picked up fresh fruits, dry fruits, and bread for our impending journey.
In the evening, we hopped on the overnight train to Khiva.
Day 3: Reaching Khiva and relishing a memorable sunset
The train reached Khiva at the right time. Our B&B was located inside the Itchan Qala, which is a bit far from Khiva’s rail station. So, we had requested our B&B for a pick up from the station.
We started exploring Khiva with a hearty lunch (comprised of Gumma and Tukhum Barak) at Bir Gumbaz Chaikhana. Afterwards, we bought our ticket from the twin-turreted West Gate of the Itchan Qala. The Itchan Qala, the fortified old town, is the heart of Khiva’s thriving tourism. This medieval walled town is a repository of dozens of perfectly preserved mosques, madrassas, and mausoleas.
Since it was already time for sunset, we hurried to the Kuhna Ark watchtower. The watchtower offers a breathtaking 360-degree view of the entire city. The scene turned more spectacular during sunset. Khiva’s monuments and minarets glistened under the setting sun’s light.
We finished our third day with Khorezm cuisine at Terrassa Café.
Day 4: Exploring the major attractions of Khiva
Given the mad rush of tourists and the innumerable souvenir shops (that hinder the views of the monuments) in Khiva, we decided to start early. Before breakfast, we visited:
Islam Khodja Minaret:
Regarded as Khiva’s icon, the 57-metre Islam Khoja Minaret is Uzbekistan’s highest tower. Built in 1910, it was also the first site in Uzbekistan to be declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Kalta Minor:
The turquoise-tiled Kalta Minor is located just beside the West Gate, and visible from anywhere within the Itchan Qala. Standing tall in its half-finished glory, this minaret is one of the architectural gems of Uzbekistan.
Mohammad Amin Khan Madrassa:
Situated just beside the Kalta Minor, this madrassa has now been converted into a heritage hotel (Orient Star Khiva). The interior has been grossly modified, so it is more sensible to admire the monument from the outside.
Kuhna Ark Palace:
This 12th-century palace, which once served as the royal residence of the Khiva’s rulers, is the largest monument in Itchan Qala. The palace is embellished with exceptional tile works.
Mohammad Rakhim Khan Madrassa:
This pleasing madrassa lies just across the Kuhna Ark Palace. In the evening, traditional music and dance programmes are organised on request in its courtyard.
Following a scrumptious homemade breakfast at the B&B, we ventured out for the rest of Khiva’s historic sites:
Juma Mosque:
One of the most fascinating monuments of Itchan Qala, the Juma Mosque is adorned with 218 intricately carved wooden pillars.
Tosh Hovli Palace:
The Tosh Hovli Palace is arguably the most splendid attraction of Khiva. It used to be the summer palace of Khiva’s Khans. It is graced with an exquisite interior, teeming with carved wooden pillars, blue ceramic tiles, and ‘ghanch’.
Pakhlavon Mahmud Mausoleum:
This is the final resting place of Pakhlavon Mahmud, Khiva’s patron saint who was also a humanist philosopher, poet, wrestler, and craftsman.
Afterwards, we wandered around the countless alleys of the Itchan Qala and came across a few fascinating corners.
We concluded our Khiva sojourn with a laidback dinner under the starry sky amid ancient madrassas at the Khorezm Art Restaurant.
For a more detailed itinerary of Khiva, check out our blog here.
Day 5: The desert fortresses and reaching Bukhara
At the crack of dawn, we left Khiva for Bukhara. En route, we explored two of the Khorezm Desert Fortresses, popularly known as Elliq Qala or Fifty Fortresses. The desert around Urgench is dotted with enigmatic ruins of numerous walled towns, forts, and palaces. We stopped at Dumon Qala and Guldursun Qala, and this short trip gave us a unique insight into Uzbekistan’s past.
The drive to Bukhara was fantastic. Like railways, Uzbekistan’s road connectivity is outstanding. We arrived in Bukhara in the afternoon. After dumping our luggage at the B&B, it was time to discover Bukhara’s charm.
Lyabi Hauz:
This is a bustling plaza, teeming with shops selling carpets, ceramics, dolls, cafes, and what not.
Nadir Divanbegi Madrassa:
This madrassa, situated just beside the Lyabi Hauz, exhibits one of the most phenomenal tile works in Bukhara. Interestingly, its façade displays animals instead of the traditional geometric motifs contravening the Islamic prohibition against the depiction of living beings.
Nadir Divanbegi Khanaka:
On Lyabi Hauz’s western side, the Nadir Divanbegi Khanaka was a resting lodge for the Sufi dervishes.
Kukeldash Madrassa:
Located across the Lyabi Hauz, it was once the largest Islamic school in Central Asia.
Chor Minor:
One of the most popular attractions of Bukhara, this old gateway has four decorative towers adorned with blue-glazed ceramic tiles.
Poi Kalon Complex:
Regarded as Bukhara’s icon, the Poi Kalon complex is comprised of three spectacular monuments: Mir-i-Arab Madrassa, Kalon Minaret, and Kalon Mosque. It was already evening when we reached Poi Kalon, and the entire complex was illuminated, which made the structures more enchanting.
We wrapped up the day by relishing the famous autumn special red lentil soup at Mavrigi.
Day 6: Bukhara’s captivating sites and a journey on the Afrosiyob train
As usual, we set out early to avoid the mad rush of tourists. We walked through the winding alleys of Bukhara’s old town and visited the following:
Ulugh Beg Madrassa:
Believed to be the oldest madrassa of Central Asia, it was built by Mirza Ulugh Beg, the illustrious grandson of Amir Timur. Ulugh Beg himself taught mathematics and astronomy here.
Abdul Aziz Madrassa:
Situated just across the Ulugh Beg Madrassah, this 16th-century madrassah boasts one of the finest arches in Uzbekistan.
Kalon Minaret:
This jaw-dropping minaret was once the tallest structure in Central Asia. This 47 m tall minaret is an architectural masterpiece.
Kalon Mosque:
The original mosque was ravaged by Genghis Khan. It was rebuilt in the 16th century at the foot of the Kalon Minaret.
Mir-i-Arab Madrassa:
With its gleaming blue domes and intricate glazed tile work, this madrassa is regarded as one of the most striking attractions of Uzbekistan.
After a delightful breakfast, we explored the rest of Bukhara’s attractions.
The Ark:
A royal town-within-town, the Ark is the oldest structure of Bukhara. The Ark served as the residence of the emirs of Bukhara till 1920 when it was bombarded by the Soviets.
Bolo Hauz Mosque:
Located near the Ark, the striking Bolo Hauz Mosque was the personal place of worship of Bukhara’s emirs.
Maghok-i-Attor:
This is the oldest surviving mosque in Central Asia and one of the few buildings in Bukhara that survived the Mongol invasion of Genghis Khan.
Domed bazaars:
Previously, Bukhara was characterized by the presence of several domed bazaars. At present, only three domed bazaars exist – Taki Telpak Furushon (cap makers’ bazaar), Taki Sarrafon (money changers’ bazaar), and Taki Zargaron (jewellers’ bazaar).
It was time to bid Bukhara adieu and depart for Samarkand. We hopped on the high-speed Afrosiyob train, a much-anticipated journey. We reached Samarkand in the evening.
Learn about the details of our Bukhara travel here.
Day 7: Marvel at the architectural gems of Samarkand
We spent the entire morning exploring the nooks and crannies of the magnificent Registan, the heart of Samarkand. The Registan is an ensemble of three towering madrassahs, embellished with majolica and cerulean mosaics. These are the Ulugh Beg Madrassa, Tillya Kari Madrassa, and Sher Dor Madrassa. These three imposing edifices are among the world’s oldest preserved madrassahs. Jointly, they create arguably the most magnificent sight in Central Asia.
Afterwards, we had a finger-licking lunch at Karimbek, one of Samarkand’s best restaurants serving traditional Uzbek dishes.
Post-lunch, we visited the following sites:
Gur-e-Amir:
This mausoleum, characterized by a spectacular gateway and furrowed cerulean dome, is the final resting place of Amir Timur. Along with Timur, his two sons and two grandsons (including the renowned astronomer Mirza Ulugh Beg) are laid to rest here.
Shah-i-Zinda:
Perhaps the most striking monument of Samarkand, the Shah-i-Zinda is a necropolis dotted with an avenue of mausoleums. The mausoleums exhibit some of the richest tile work in the world, dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries.
Hazrat Khizr Mosque:
This beautiful mosque is located atop a hill near the Shah-i-Zinda. It dates back to the 7th century and is therefore regarded as one of the oldest mosques in the world.
It was already evening. We walked along the promenade, and our feet once again took us to the Registan. The square was lit up to a sublime effect. The Registan looked equally stunning even at night.
We concluded the long day with a relaxed dinner and live music at Labi G’or.
Day 8: Exploring off-beat Samarkand
On our 8th day, we first explored two of the lesser-known spots of Samarkand:
Ulugh Beg Observatory: Built in the 1420s by Timur’s illustrious grandson Ulugh Beg, it is regarded as one of the greatest astronomical observatories ever built. At present, a museum has been set up here along with an epic statue of Ulugh Beg. The museum houses a copy of his star catalogue containing details of 1000 stars and their exact positions in the sky.
Afrosiab Museum:
Afrosiab is a 2.2 km archaeological site, where the remains of Markanda or ancient Samarkand have been excavated. A museum was built around a nicked 7th-century fresco showcasing the Sogdian King Varkhuman receiving foreign dignitaries at his court.
We returned to Labi G’or for lunch as we loved the food and ambience the previous night. Then, we hit the road for the last leg of exploring Samarkand.
Bibi Khanym Mosque:
The monumental Bibi Khanym Mosque is situated near the Siob Bazaar. It was named after Timur’s favourite consort. The lavish spoils from Timur’s invasion of India funded the construction of this gigantic mosque.
Siob Bazaar:
We quickly took a round of Samarkand’s vibrant bazaar, which specializes in hand-painted ceramics and ikkat textiles.
Lastly, we went to the Registan for one last time. We strolled here and there, sat on the stairs of Tillya Kari Madrassa, and continued admiring the stellar monuments.
If you want to read more about our experience in Samarkand, run here.
Day 9: Wandering in Tashkent and flying back home
We boarded the early morning Afrosiyob train from Samarkand and reached Tashkent by 8.
After quickly checking in, we decided to visit a few of the remaining places of interest in Tashkent:
Metro Stations: Tashkent’s metro stations are pieces of art. We purchased a ticket (UZS 2,000 per person) and visited the best of the lot – Kosmonavtlar, Alisher Navoiy, Ozbekiston, Gofur Gulom, and Mustaqiliq Maidoni.
Amir Timur Square & Independence Square:
Amir Timur Square is the main town square in Tashkent. The square has a stunning statue of Amir Timur at the centre. Independence Square is another important town square, where major state events and military parades are hosted.
Tashkent TV Tower:
It is the 11th tallest tower in the world.
Minor Mosque:
Built recently in 2014, it is also called Snow Mosque as it is built with white marble.
We skipped the crowd favourite Beshqozon Plov Centre and instead went to Afsona for lunch. Afsona is a premium restaurant in Tashkent that serves traditional Uzbek dishes with a modern twist. It also has a lovely outdoor setting. We had a feast as this was our last meal in Uzbekistan.
The rain had welcomed us on our first day in Tashkent. Coincidentally, it was rain who bade us goodbye as we boarded our midnight flight to New Delhi.
Travel Experience in Uzbekistan:
Our families and friends raised eyebrows when we revealed our plan to visit Uzbekistan. We were bombarded with the anticipated ‘Why Uzbekistan’ quiz. Honestly, we were not surprised by this reaction, given the stigma attached to countries whose names end with ‘stan’. Even after we returned, friends and colleagues wondered (and still wondering) ‘Why Uzbekistan’ and pounded us with a barrage of queries. So, we decided to chalk out our Uzbek experiences:
- Uzbekistan is one of the safest countries in the world. True, it shares a border with Afghanistan. However religious extremism is non-existent in Uzbekistan. Reports of crime against tourists are also rare. Popular tourist destinations such as Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva are frequented by English-speaking tourist police.
- Uzbek nationals are one of the friendliest people that we have met. They are a smiling lot, and always eager to help. In Samarkand, we were unable to locate the Yandex cab that we had booked. Sensing our problem, two locals came to our rescue and voluntarily contacted the driver over the phone providing our exact location.
- Also, the Uzbek people love India. Everywhere we went, we were greeted with warm smiles, requests for selfies, and folks saying ‘Hindustan, India’.
The Uzbek people rarely speak or understand English. However, this was hardly a deterrent given the cordiality of the Uzbeks. We communicated through Google and Apple translator and even resorted to hand signs. Also, smiling helped a lot to overcome the language barrier.
You will also need a Translator to read the menu cards in restaurants (for in-camera translation, Apple translator proved to be more reliable). Menu cards in most restaurants (even the high-end ones) are written in Cyrillic script.
- The currency here is Uzbekistani Som (UZS). Bank notes start from 1,000 UZS and go up to 2,00,000 UZS. Coins are rarely used and we found coins of 500 UZS and 1,000 UZS. We initially exchanged money at the Tashkent airport. Later, we exchanged money at a bank in Khiva, at a souvenir shop in Registan, and our B&B in Samarkand. The exchange rate was higher at the B&B as compared to the airport and bank.
- The Uzbek cuisine is heavily meat-centred. While meat lovers will rejoice at the range of delectable dishes, vegetarians may find it challenging. Tashkent offers a wide range of vegetarian options. However, in Khiva and Bukhara, vegetarian options are scarce. If you are a vegetarian, look out for salads, soups, fresh and dry fruits, and Uzbek breads.
- While Uzbekistan is mostly affordable, Khiva is expensive. The hotels and B&Bs, restaurants, tickets, souvenirs – everything is costly in Khiva as compared to Bukhara and Samarkand.
- In Bukhara and Samarkand, using Yandex app cabs for transportation proved cheap and convenient. Underground metro was our preferred choice of commuting in Tashkent. For longer journeys, we opted for trains. Train tickets can be easily booked from the website of Uzbekistan Railways.
Getting a local SIM card in Uzbekistan is necessary. Local mobile connectivity is necessary for navigating maps, using a translator, and booking Yandex Go cabs. There are three service providers – U Cell, Beeline, and Uztelecom. We got a U Cell SIM for 80,000 UZS that gave us 40 GB of data which was enough for 12 days.
- There are no strict restrictions regarding clothes in Uzbekistan. In fact, we found the women (and men) in Tashkent, Samarkand, and Bukhara to be chic. Their outfits are uber stylish yet modest. We packed modest outfits that covered our shoulders, and midriffs and went below the knees. Also, we made sure not to wear any OTT outfits.
- Bargaining for prices at markets, souvenir shops, and taxis is common everywhere in Uzbekistan. The prices are not overtly exaggerated in most shops, so don’t push things too far when haggling.
According to our experience, prices are exorbitant in the Siyob Bazaar of Samarkand. A single piece of medium-sized ceramic plate was priced at UZS 800,000 there! No wonder, we turned away and ran as fast as possible. On the other hand, Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent offered reasonable rates while Bukhara’s bazaars have diverse objects.
We avoided drinking tap water in Uzbekistan. We relied on packaged mineral water that cost UZS 20,000.
Important FAQs:
General information regarding Uzbekistan:
- Uzbekistan is part of Central Asia.
- It is a doubly landlocked country, as it is surrounded by only landlocked countries.
- It is surrounded by 5 countries: Kazakhstan to the north, Kyrgyzstan to the northeast, Tajikistan to the southeast, Afghanistan to the south, and Turkmenistan to the southwest.
- The capital of Uzbekistan is Tashkent, which also happens to be the country’s largest city.
- The official language is Uzbek.
- The currency is Uzbek Som (UZS).
How can I reach Uzbekistan:
The international airport of Uzbekistan’s capital, Tashkent, is well connected with the world’s major cities. Uzbekistan Airways and Indigo run direct flights from New Delhi to Tashkent, which take barely 3 hours.
Where can I stay in Uzbekistan:
- In Tashkent: Art Residence Hotel, Hotel Suzuk Ota, Leader Hotel, Navroz Hotel, Manor Hotel, and Lotte City Hotel.
- In Khiva: Islam Khodja Guest House, Madrassa Polvon Qori Boutique, Khiva Otabek Hotel, Hotel Orient Star, Nazira Boutique Hotel & Terrace.
- In Bukhara: Rahmat Guest House, Komil Bukhara Boutique Hotel, Art Guest House Usto, Hotel Mironshox, Hovli Poyon B&B, Madina Mehribon.
- In Samarkand: Furkat Guest House, Antica Family Guest House, Imran & Bek, Bibi Khanum Hotel, Kamila Boutique, Samarkand Travel Hotel.
We made all our bookings from Bookings.com.
Where to eat in Uzbekistan:
- In Tashkent: Beshqozon, Afsona, Somsa & Shashlik, National Food, Amaretto, Ovaqat Bozari, Stuzzico, Caravan.
- In Khiva: Terrassa Café, Khorezm Art Restaurant, Bir Gumbaz Chaikhana, Malika Kheivak, Khiva Moon, Café Zerafshon.
- In Bukhara: Old Bukhara, Minzifa, Bella Italia, Magrivi, Bolo Hauz Chaikhana, Lyabi Hauz.
- In Samarkhand: Karimbek, Labi G’or, Besh Chinor, Café Magistr, Old City Restaurant, Kyzyl Chaikhana.
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