“Everything I have heard about Markanda (Samarkand) is true, except that it’s more beautiful than I ever imagined.” – Alexander the Great in 329 century BCE.
Samarkand has been artfully styled as the Pearl of the East, Jewel of Central Asia, Mirror of the World, and Centre of the Universe. The very word ‘Samarkand’ is embroidered with enigma and romantic legends. Nestled in the Zerafshan River valley and flanked by the Pamir-Altai ranges, this fabled oasis bordering the Kyzyl Kum desert has never lacked ardent admirers.
Located in the heart of Uzbekistan, this celebrated city has attracted conquerors and travellers alike. Samarkand was a pitstop for Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan, and Marco Polo. Above all, the legendary Timur moulded Samarkand into his cherished capital, embellishing it with azure mosaics and sky-kissing furrowed domes that excite travellers even today.
Known as Crossroads of Culture by UNESCO, Samarkand today is well-known for exploring the 3 M’s – mosques, madrassahs, and mausoleums, The intricate blue tile work and the sublime domes and minarets continue to capture the imagination of the visitors. Turn back the clock as you stroll inside the fabulous Registan, go stargazing in one of the oldest observatories in the world, find peace in the trails of the poignant Shah-i-Zinda and Gur-e-Amir, go for an aimless walk on the broad avenues and lovely parks.
Table of Contents
History of Samarkand:
Samarkand is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia. Archaeologists have unearthed traces of urban settlements dating back to the 6th century BCE. When Alexander the Great set foot in Samarkand in 329 BCE, the city was already the fortified, cosmopolitan capital of the Sogdian Empire. The Sogdians had extensive trade relations with India, China, and Persia. Consequently, Samarkand had evolved into a crossroad of both cultural and commercial exchange.
Samarkand witnessed the waxing and waning of scores of kingdoms. It was ruled by the Western Turks, Arabs, Samanids, Karakhanids, Seljuqs, Karakitay, and Khorezmshah until Genghis Khan’s invasion in 1220 CE. Genghis Khan’s marauding army laid the majestic city of Samarkand to waste.
Fortunately, Samarkand was revived from the ashes by the almost mythical Amir Timur who made Samarkand his capital. For the next 35 years, Timur erected a host of larger-than-life monuments and assembled scholars, intellectuals, and religious teachers. Timur heralded a renaissance and forged his beloved Samarkand into a cultural and economic emporium.
Samarkand underwent a gradual decline when the capital was shifted to Bukhara in the 16th century. Its glory was restored in the second half of the 19th century when the Russians occupied it.
What to see in Samarkand:
Registan:
In the Tajik tongue, Registan translates to ‘sandy place’. During Amir Timur’s reign, Registan was the heart of Samarkand. Even now, Registan is the essence of this historic city. All roads of Samarkand culminate at Registan, as it did in the 14th century when it was the nucleus of the Timurid Renaissance.
The Registan is an ensemble of three towering madrassahs, embellished with majolica and cerulean mosaics. These three imposing edifices are among the world’s oldest preserved madrassahs and create arguably the most magnificent sight in Central Asia.
Ulugh Beg Madrassah:
Regarded as the oldest madrassah of Samarkand, it was built in 1420 by Amir Timur’s grandson Mirza Ulugh Beg. Ulugh Beg’s fame rests more as an astronomer than a ruler. The stars gracing the madrassah’s exterior reflect his penchant for astronomy. An ardent patron of knowledge, he built madrassahs across his empire.
The curriculum of this madrassah included mathematics, astronomy, theology, and philosophy. Ulugh Beg himself taught mathematics here. It was regarded as one of the best educational institutes of the Orient.
Tillya Kari Madrassah:
The centrepiece of the Registan is the exquisite Tillya Kari madrassah. Completed in 1660, its highlight is the mosque whose interior is lavishly gilded. In Persian, ‘Tillya Kari’ refers to gilded. The mosque’s ceiling, wreathed with gold leaves, is completely flat but creates a mirage of a dome thanks to its tapered design.
The mosque also houses a photography gallery, where an intriguing collection of black and white pictures of the erstwhile Samarkand are displayed.
Sher Dor Madrassah:
The façade features two roaring tigers carrying the sun on their backs. The bizarre decoration is in defiance of Islamic prohibition against the depiction of living beings.
It took 17 years to complete the construction of this madrassah in 1636.
- Timings: Every day from 8 AM to 7 PM.
- Tickets: The entry fee is UZS 60,000. Previously, the ticket remained valid for a single day. At present, the ticket allows only a single entry. If you want to visit later, you are required to re-purchase the ticket by paying the full amount.
- Time required: Exploring the nooks and corners of Registan will take 2-3 hours.
- Pro tip:
- Though the ticket counter officially opens at 8 AM, you can enter the square at 7 AM by paying the ticket price to the guards.
- The best time to visit Registan is early morning (when hordes of tourists are absent) and late evening (when the Registan is lit up). Sunset is also a good time, as the monuments look resplendent. However, it will be crowded.
- For photography, early morning, sunset, and late evening are perfect.
- You can also shoot the illuminated Registan from behind the barricades.
- The large tourist groups led by an animated flag-bearing guide are perhaps the bane of Uzbekistan’s tourism. These maddening groups begin to flood the sights after 10 AM. Therefore, try visiting the Registan early in the morning to explore it peacefully.
- Check the souvenir shop outside Ulugh Beg Madrassah for handpainted postcards.
- Take a break with Café Sogdiana’s ice creams.
Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum:
The word Gur-e-Amir means the tomb of the king. This mausoleum, characterized by a spectacular gateway and furrowed cerulean dome, is the final resting place of Amir Timur. Along with Timur, his two sons and two grandsons (including the renowned astronomer Mirza Ulugh Beg) are laid to rest here.
Surprisingly, the exterior of the mausoleum is austere. In contrast, the interior is bedecked with hundreds of tiles and gold leaves. The stones inside are symbolic, and the actual crypts are in the basement.
Timur’s tomb is right at the centre. It used to be a single block of dark green jade. It was plundered by the Persian invader Nadir Shah in 1740. To the left of Timur’s tomb lies the simple marble block of Ulugh Beg. The stone in the front marks the grave of Mohammad Sultan, another grandson of Timur. The blocks behind Timur’s mark the tombs of his two sons, Shah Rukh and Miran Shah. Sheikh Syed Umar, a descendent of the Prophet and Timur’s revered teacher, is also interred here.
A tall wooden pole with a tuft of horse hair is placed near the stone markers to ward off evil spirits.
- Timings: Every day from 8 AM to 7 PM.
- Tickets: The entry fee is UZS 40,000.
- Time required: More or less 30 minutes.
- Pro tip:
- Don’t forget to return in the evening when the illuminated Gur-e-Amir is a grand spectacle.
- For photography, early morning and late evening are perfect.
- Dress modestly as this is a mausoleum.
- Try to maintain silence while inside as many pilgrims offer their prayers here.
- The Gur-e-Amir lies 2 km from Registan (15 minutes’ walk).
Bibi Khanym Mosque:
The monumental Bibi Khanym Mosque is situated near the Siob Bazaar. It was named after Timur’s favourite consort. The lavish spoils from Timur’s invasion of India funded the construction of this gigantic mosque. Given the enormity of its stature, the Bibi Khanym Mosque used to be the pearl of Timur’s empire.
In its heyday, the Bibi Khanym Mosque was regarded as the largest mosque in the Islamic world. The ‘pishtak’ or doorway is 38 m high, while the cupola of the main mosque is 41 m. Needless to say, it was an ambitious project, surpassing contemporary architectural craftsmanship.
Unfortunately, the dome started to fall apart even before the construction was finished. The earthquake in 1897 was the last nail in the coffin, and the mosque crumbled partially. Soon, Timur’s dream project was abandoned before being restored by the Soviets in the 1970s.
The mosque’s courtyard boasts a colossal marble Quran stand. According to the legends, any woman who crawls under the stand will bear numerous children. At present, the stand is protected inside a glass case.
- Timings: Every day from 8 AM to 7 PM.
- Tickets: The entry fee is UZS 40,000.
- Time required: Around 40 minutes to 1 hour.
- Pro tip:
- The best time to visit the Bibi Khanum Mosque is in the morning. Visit in the evening as the mosque is spotlit to a surreal effect.
- For photography, sunset is the most fitting time.
- The Bibi Khanym Mosque is 2 km from Registan. It’s a 10-minute walk down the Promenade.
Shah-i-Zinda:
Perhaps the most striking monument of Samarkand, the Shah-i-Zinda is a necropolis dotted with an avenue of mausoleums. The mausoleums exhibit some of the richest tile work in the world, dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries. They are distinguished by a stalactite vault over the entrance, filigree corner columns, panels of carved and glazed terracotta and majolica, and scrolling floral motifs in different shades of blue.
The word ‘Shah-i-Zinda’ translates to ‘Tomb of the Living King’. It is an epithet of the holy shrine (probably grave) of Qusam ibn-Abbas, who spread Islam to this region in the 7th century CE.
The Shah-i-Zinda is mainly the burial place of the family members of Timur as well as the aristocracy and clergymen belonging to his era. The most breathtaking tomb is the Shodi Mulk Oko Mausoleum, where a sister and niece of Timur were enshrined. It is second on the left after the stairs.
- Timings: Every day from 7 AM to 7 PM.
- Tickets: The entry fee is UZS 40,000.
- Time required: At least 2 hours.
- Pro tip:
- The best time to visit Shah-i-Zinda is early morning and during sunset.
- The Shah-i-Zinda remains busy throughout the day, as both tourists and pilgrims assemble here. So, try to visit right when the door of the mausoleum opens for visitors. Or, go late and wait till the sunset and you will find an almost deserted Shah-i-Zinda. Plus, you can also watch the golden lights illuminating the tombs in the evening.
- For photography, early morning, sunset, and evening are the most suitable. The light is perfect for photography, while the complex remains devoid of flocks of tourists.
- This is an active place of worship. So, dress modestly and enter with respect.
- The Shah-i-Zinda is 7.3 km from Registan Square. It takes a 30-minute walk to reach Shah-i-Zinda from Rgistan.
Apart from these 4 main sights, Samarkand has a few other interesting places:
Ulugh Beg’s Observatory:
Built in the 1420s by Timur’s illustrious grandson Ulugh Beg, it is regarded as one of the greatest astronomical observatories ever built.
The observatory had three stories. The most intriguing part was a 30m quadrant which was designed to study the positions of stars and planets. Sadly, the observatory was destroyed after Ulugh Beg was beheaded. The quadrant’s huge carved track has only survived the ordeal.
Presently, a museum stands here along with an epic statue of Ulugh Beg. The museum houses a copy of his star catalogue containing details of 1000 stars and their exact positions in the sky. Ulugh Beg achieved this feat 200 years before the telescope was invented.
- Timing: Every day from 8 AM to 8 PM.
- Tickets: The entry fee is UZS 40,000.
- Time required: About an hour.
Afrosiab Museum:
Afrosiab is a 2.2 km archaeological site, where the remains of Markanda or ancient Samarkand have been excavated. A museum was built around a nicked 7th-century fresco showcasing the Sogdian King Varkhuman receiving foreign dignitaries at his court.
The museum exhibits a fascinating display of archaeological finds from ancient Samarkand such as pottery shards, weapons, ossuary, and so on.
- Timing: Every day from 9 AM to 6 PM.
- Tickets: The entry fee is UZS 40,000.
- Time required: Around 1.5 hours.
Hazrat Khizr Mosque:
This beautiful mosque is located atop a hill near the Shah-i-Zinda. It dates back to the 7th century and is therefore regarded as one of the oldest mosques in the world. The original mosque was razed to the ground by Genghis Khan in the 13th century. Later, it was restored in 1854.
Statue of Amir Timur:
The magnificent statue of Amir Timur, seated regally on his throne, is located near the Gur-e-Amir. It is a major landmark of Samarkand.
Hovrenko Wine Factory:
Uzbekistan is the largest wine-producing country in Central Asia. Samarkand’s Hovrenko Wine Factory is a living testament to this. It has been producing wine since 1868. You can sign up for a wine-tasting session here. However, you need to check the availability of slots beforehand and pre-book your spot.
How many days are required for Samarkand:
At least 2 full days are required for exploring the sights and sounds of Samarkand. A few spots even call for a second (or third) visit in the evening when the lights shower a dreamlike brilliance. We spent 2 days and 3 nights in Samarkand, and yet the duration felt fleeting. Such is the magic of Samarkand!
2-day itinerary for Samarkand:
Start your day with Registan Square, Gur-e-Amir, and Amir Timur Square. Post lunch, visit Bibi Khanym Mosque, Bibi Khanym Mausoleum, and a shopping spree at Siob Bazaar. End your day with an illuminated Registan in the evening.
On your second day, go to Shah-i-Zinda first. Then, explore Ulugh Beg Observatory, Afrosiob Museum, and Hazrat Khizr Mosque. In the evening, take a wake on the promenade while glancing at the spotlit Bibi Khanym Mosque and moving on to Registan. You can also visit Gur-e-Amir in the evening.
1-day itinerary for Samarkand:
If you have just a day left, concentrate on the big four. Start with Registan, and then explore Gur-e-Amir, Bibi Khanym Mosque, and Shah-i-Zinda. Squeeze a quick round inside the Siob Bazaar.
Day trips from Samarkand:
If you have spare days, plan some riveting day trips from Samarkand.
Shahrisabz: The birthplace of Amir Timur, Shahrisabz is 92 km (2-hour ride) from Samarkand. Visit the Ak Saray Palace which used to be the summer palace of Timur, Dorus Siyadat Mausoleum, Kok Gumbaz Mosque, Dorut Tilyovat which is believed to be the original burial complex of Timur’s ancestors, and Amir Timur Museum.
Nurata: This is a 2-3 days trip. Nurata, 177 km from Samarkand, is known for the yurt camps near Aidarkul Lake.
Seven Lakes, Tajikistan: A few tour agencies organise a whirlwind day trip to the Fann Mountains and Seven Lakes of Tajikistan.
Important FAQs:
Where is Samarkand located?
It is convenient to be well-acquainted with the basic geography of Samarkand before scheduling your visit to this historic city. Samarkand is located in the southeastern part of Uzbekistan, near the border of Tajikistan. The approximate distances of other major Uzbek cities are:
- Tashkent – 306 km.
- Bukhara – 269 km.
- Khiva – 692 km.
- Andijan – 591 km.
How can I reach Samarkand?
By train: The easiest and cheapest way to reach Samarkand is by train. Uzbekistan has a fantastic railway connectivity. You can avail the high-speed Afrosiyob trains from Tashkent and Bukhara. If you are travelling from Khiva or Andijan, take the overnight sleeper trains. You can book your tickets from the official website of Uzbekistan Railways.
By air: If you are in a hurry, book a flight with Uzbekistan Airways from Tashkent to Samarkand.
By road: Bus is also a good option for inter-city transport. You can get your tickets from avtoticket. uz.
What is the best time to visit Samarkand?
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to mid-November) are the best time to visit. Avoid summer as temperature soars beyond 40 degrees Celsius. Also, winters are bitterly cold thanks to the Polar winds.
Where can I stay in Samarkand?
There are plenty of B&Bs in Samarkand that fit every budget. We recommend selecting accommodation near Registan Square.
Furkat Guest House—We opted for this cosy B&B due to its proximity to the Registan. The rooms are furnished in traditional Uzbek style. The hosts are helpful, and the breakfast platter is superb. The pocket pinch for a 3-night stay was USD 120. We booked the room through Booking.com.
Antica Family Guest House
Imran & Bek
Bibi Khanum Hotel
Kamila Boutique
Samarkand Travel Hotel
Where can I eat in Samarkand?
Karimbek – Traditional Uzbek cuisine.
Labi G’or – Lies right across the Registan.
Besh Chinor – Traditional Uzbek cuisine.
Café Magistr – International cuisine.
Old City Restaurant – Uzbek and European cuisine.
Kyzyl Chaikhana – Traditional Uzbek teahouse.
Can I get vegetarian food in Samarkand?
Getting vegetarian food in Uzbekistan is almost a challenge since the Uzbek cuisine is heavily meat-based. However, you will find a variety of breads, salads, and soups in almost every restaurant. Also, you can seldom find Samsa and Manti with veggie fillings.
How to get around Samarkand?
Most of the attractions in Samarkand can be explored on foot. The exceptions are Shah-i-Zinda, Ulugh Beg Observatory, and Afrosiyob Museum, for which you can book a cab on the Yandex Go app. It will cost around UZS 16,000.
What to pack for Samarkand?
There is no strict dress code in Samarkand. However, most of the attractions are religious. Hence, pack modest dresses that cover your arms and legs. Avoid shorts, miniskirts, off-shoulder dresses, or any mid-riff baring clothes.
Exploring Samarkand involves lots of walking. Pack comfortable shoes and sandals.
Don’t forget your sunscreen, moisturiser, wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses, and umbrellas.
If you are visiting in October, pack light woollens as evenings get a bit chilly.
Where to shop in Samarkand?
Siob Bazaar: From hand-painted ceramics to ‘ikkat’ textiles, Siob Bazaar is a veritable treasure trove. However, beware of the inflated prices and be prepared to bargain a lot.
Promenade: Countless souvenir shops line the fringes of the Promenade Street. We found the prices more reasonable here than in Siob Bazaar.
Dil-Suzani Boutique: Located inside the Tillya Kari Madrassah, you will find impressive suzani here.
Happy Bird Handicrafts Centre: This is a remarkable cluster of craft shops inside a courtyard.
Travel agencies in Samarkand:
The leading travel agencies and tour operators in Samarkand are Zamin Travel, Jahongir Travel, and Sogda Tour. You can contact them to organize both the local tours and day trips.
Local guides in Samarkand:
For an in-depth understanding of Samarkand’s glorious history as well as compelling tidbits, you can hire a local guide. Valentina Belova (+998 91 559 6130) and Davlat Negmadjanov (+998 90 276 1791) are well-known English-speaking guides of Samarkand.
Very informative ! Liked your way of making your description lively for the reader. Photos are superb. Look forward to your posts on other Uzbek historical cities.
Thank you so much for reading our blog. We will be posting our next blog shortly.
Painstakingly curated article with great pics of amazing Uzbekistan. Congratulations Sudeshna …you proved to be a master storyteller and a passionate student of history.
Thank you so much ma’am for your encouraging words.
The post was very good, I appreciate how you explain it, Keep the posts coming! Very good talent.”
Thank you so much. We hope this post will inspire you to travel in Samarkand.