The morning greeted us with an overcast sky. The clock was ten past six when we reached the gate of the Ellora Cave complex. We had booked online tickets from the ASI portal. The security nonchalantly scanned our e-tickets, as our bags went through an insouciant scrutiny. After dodging the regular “do you have a drone/tripod” quizzes, we hurried inside. A group of elderly, vivacious pilgrims was ahead of us. Their chortle cheered up an otherwise gloomy ambience.
We walked past them and reached the annular patch of garden just in front of Cave 16. A block of stone proudly declared the Ellora Caves as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Stoked, we entered through the petite Gopuram. The Gajalakshmi welcomed us, as the menacing Dvarapalas watched with wary eyes. We turned left and set foot on the northern court. What lay before us knocked our socks off. In its unparalleled magnificence, the Kailasa Temple stood there.
A tradition of rock-cut architecture:
The topography of western India is dominated by the Western Ghats, the basalt rock of which is perfect for carving. Hence, the region has the largest concentration of rock-cut caves in India, dotted with no less than 1000 caves.
The tradition of rock-cut caves originated in present-day Bihar, where the Mauryan rulers excavated the Barabar and Nagarjuni caves. Gradually, the rock-cut activity shifted to what is now modern Maharashtra. Here, the Buddhists pioneered the excavation of caves as their monsoon retreats. Bhaja was the first cave to be excavated in 200 BCE.
The Hindus started their rock-cutting activity from the 6th century CE. It began with Jogeshwari in present-day Mumbai, as also the nearby island of Elephanta. The zenith was reached with the construction of Ellora’s Cave 16, popularly called Kailasa.
The origin of Kailasa Temple:
Once upon a time, the gods were gliding in their celestial chariots when suddenly a phenomenal temple on the ground arrested their attention. It was the Kailasa. Enthralled, they concluded that this earthly abode of Lord Siva cannot possibly be the handiwork of humans. Such is the splendour of the Kailasa that even the gods were captivated by its brilliance. Thankfully, they didn’t blame it all on the aliens like we, the mortals, do!
Long ago, the Queen of the Rashtrakutas, Elu was eager to build a magnificent temple for Siva. Her aspiration led her to swear a vow of fasting until the final completion of the temple. The anxious king scoured every town and every village for architects, yet no one was willing to take up the mantle. At last, an architect from Pratisthana named Kokasa mustered courage and agreed to undertake the task. In no time, the temple was completed, and the queen’s pledge was fulfilled. This legend about Kailasa’s construction has survived in the pages of the 10th-century “Katha-kalpa-taru”.
Historically speaking, the creation of Kailasa is attributed to Krishna I, one of the greatest Rashtrakuta rulers. His patronage is recorded in the Baroda Copper Plate grant of Karkka II of the Gujarat branch of the Rashtrakuta dynasty.
Kailasa Temple, the home of Siva:
Ellora’s Cave 16 was designed to represent Mount Kailasa, where Lord Siva resides. Dedicated to the worship of Siva, the cave was fittingly named Kailasa.
Ellora is considered a sacred pilgrimage as it is also home to the Ghrishneshvara Jyotirlinga. The present temple is quite modern, built in the 18th century by Ahilyabai Holkar. However, the Jyotirlinga is referred to in many ancient texts. Thus, in all probability, the Kailasa Cave was the original site of the Jyotirlinga. Moreover, the name ‘Ghrishneshvara’ has been derived from the fact that it was rock-cut. In Sanskrit, ‘ghrish’ means to chisel. Thus, Ghrishneshvara alludes to the god whose shrine is chiselled out.
Kailasa Temple, an architectural marvel:
Kailasa is undoubtedly the finest cave temple in the world. Its architectural acumen isn’t just about its monumental scale, but accomplishing an unthinkable, impossible feat. It is largely a copy of the Virupaksha Temple at Pattadakal, which in turn was a replica of Kanchipuram’s Kailasanatha Temple. The Kailasa was the culmination of rock-cut temple architecture, which was pioneered by the Pallavas and honed by the Chalukyas.
A monolithic wonder:
To think that the gargantuan Cave 16 is a monolithic structure! The idea seems preposterous, but in truth, Kailasa is the largest monolithic rock-cut structure in the world.
The temple was hewn from a single mass of rock secured by cutting three big trenches in the three sides of the hill. Everything – pillars, stairways, shrines, sculptures – is all part of a single block.
Top-down vertical excavation:
In general, the construction of a temple starts from the base, and then gradually concludes with the shikhara. Not Kailasa, though. The excavation started from the finial and then went downward. In doing so, the artisans removed three million cubic feet of stone, weighing approximately 200,000 tonnes!
This top-down vertical excavation implied that there was no room for error – one wrong cut could undo the entire plan.
Engineering without blueprints:
No modern machinery. No advanced surveying tools. No evidence of blueprints. Yet the artisans with their wizard-like dexterity conjured up this monumental temple. Since the excavation progresses from top to bottom, every measurement had to be pre-calculated with extraordinary precision.
Structural illusion and artistic precision:
The calibre of the artisans is obvious from the way they contrived the stone to imitate built architecture. Pillars look like they were assembled, when in fact they were carved. Beams and brackets look functional, yet they are decorative illusions. It’s bamboozling how wooden architectural styles are replicated in stone. This interplay between illusion and reality makes the Kailasa surreal.
A three-dimensional sculpture:
The temples, as we see, are basically architectural marvels adorned with sculptures. Kailasa, however, went against the grain. It is basically a sculpture that became architecture.
Every surface in Cave 16 is brimming with details – elephants shoulder the weight of the temple, pillars transform into narrative panels, walls unfold into pages of Ramayana and Mahabharata.
Kailasa Temple, a carved elegance:
Kailasa is a living mythological landscape, where the Hindu deities, mythical heroes, and celestial beings have been carved with unmatched finesse. Every inch of the temple is embellished with meticulous carving of Hindu divinities. The stories in stone start right from the outer screen wall, where vertical compartments house fascinating sculptures of dancing Siva, Vishnu on Garuda, Narasimha, and so on.
In this section, we are highlighting the key carvings of the Kailasa:
Gajalakshmi:
As you enter through the Gopuram, you’ll be welcomed by a huge sculpture of Gajalakshmi, seated on a lotus and being bathed by elephants.
Mahisasuramardini:
Sculpted on the interior of the screen wall in the north court, it is a dynamic depiction of an eight-armed Durga slaying the buffalo demon. Above the sky, Indra, Vayu, Yama, Agni, Kubera, Varuna, Ishana, and Ishwara are present.
Madana & Rati:
Nearby, the god of love, Madana or Kama, stands with his consort, Rati. Kama holds a sugarcane in his left hand, above which flies his ‘Makara dhvaja’.
Andhakasura-vadha-murti Siva:
This can be found on the eastern face of the Nandi mandapa, below the rock bridge that connects it to the main shrine. Here, Siva is ten-armed. He grips the elephant hide above his head with four arms. The rest of the hands hold a damaru, a trident, an elephant tusk, and a bowl. He is touching Parvati’s face with the other hand. Between his legs, Bhiringi and the gangs are dancing in joy. The Saptamatrikas are sitting near his feet.
Siva as Mahayogi:
In sharp contrast, the panel on the opposite wall shows Siva as Mahayogi, while the dikpalas are above him.
Siva as Nataraja:
The northern wall of the Nandi mandapa has a sculpture of dancing Siva. Though partly ruined, the graceful vigour of Nataraja is palpable.
Narasimha:
The man-lion incarnation of Vishnu is carved on the southern wall of the Nandi mandapa. The vigorous panel shows the fierce deity trampling upon Hiranyakashipu with his left leg, while ready to hurl the demon into the sky with his right hand.
Mahabharata Panels:
Scenes from the Mahabharata are etched on the northern side of the temple’s basement. One of the most fascinating sculptures of Ellora, it depicts the phases of the Kurukshetra War as well as Krishna’s life story.
Ramayana Motifs:
The Ramayana is sculpted on the southern side. From Rama’s departure from Ayodhya to the battle with Ravana, this panel creates a visual journey through one of India’s greatest epics.
Ravana Anugraha Murti:
This is one of the most artistic and renowned sculptures of Ellora. Found on the southern exterior wall, it shows Ravana shaking Mount Kailasa. While a frightened Parvati clutches Siva’s arm, Siva himself is composed.
Kailasa Temple, the hidden elements:
Well, not exactly hidden. But most visitors simply overlook a few key details of Kailasa.
River Goddess Shrine:
As you enter through the Gopuram, turn your head to the left, and you’ll find a small shrine in the north-western corner of Kailasa. It is an altar for the three river goddesses – Saraswati on a lotus on the left, Ganga on a crocodile in the middle, and on the right, Yamuna on a tortoise. The faces of the goddesses have faded away, but their slender and elegant figures are lyrical.
Dhvaja Stambha:
The 16 m high victory pillars are a testament to the astonishing skill of Indian craftsmen.
Paintings:
Not only sculptures, but paintings also grace the ceilings and walls of the Kailasa. They have survived only in fragments in the entrance portico of the sanctum. If you look closely, you can spot a few figures such as two baby elephants playing in a lotus pond, a supposedly deity riding a shardula, a dancing Siva, and so on. It is worth noting that some of the murals stylistically follow the Ajanta tradition.
Yajna-shala:
This hall of sacrifice is excavated in the southern wall of Kailasa’s southern court. Situated on higher ground, you can access it by a flight of stairs. The hall is full of ornate sculptures on all three sides. On the back wall are Sapta Matrikas along with Ganesha and Virbhadra. Three female figures sit on the eastern wall. The central figure, flanked by a fly whisk bearer, is a royal queen in all probability. The grace and grandeur of the female figures are astonishing.
Lankeshwar:
In the northern escarpment, there is another cave called Lankeshwar. The cave contains a few stunning sculptures of Ganesha, Narasimha, the Trinity of Brahma, Vishnu, and Maheshwara, Surya, and so on. The most imposing carving illustrates Siva dancing the tandava. The bold relief is so spirited that it seems to be erupting out of its frame.
The Galleries:
A phenomenal sculpture gallery encircles the main temple. You’ll find a profusion of carvings narrating a plethora of events from Hindu mythology, such as the marriage of Siva and Parvati, Gangadhara Siva, Siva protecting Markendeya from Yama, Harihara, Vishnu as Vamana, Krishna lifting Mount Govardhan, Krishna slaying the serpent Kaliya, and the like.
Important FAQs:
- Where is the Kailasa Temple located?
The Kailasa Temple, or Cave 16 of Ellora, is located in Aurangabad (presently Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar) district of Maharashtra. The distance is roughly 30 kms, covered in an hour by road. - How can I reach the Kailasa Temple of Ellora?
By air: The nearest airport is Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar, which is connected well with New Delhi, Mumbai, and Hyderabad. There are no direct flights from Kolkata. You have to opt for connecting flights via New Delhi or Mumbai.
By train: The nearest rail station to the Ellora Caves is Bhusaval Junction. Bhusaval is 160 km away from Ellora, and it takes 4 hours by road to reach Ellora. From Kolkata, you can opt for the Pune Duronto Express (12222) and Gitanjali Express (12859). - What is the best time to visit the Kailasa Temple?
November to March is the best time to visit the Ellora Caves. The weather remains cool and pleasant, perfect for exploring the rocky terrains of the caves. Although expect hordes of tourists during this time.
The monsoon months (July to September) turn the surrounding area lush. However, the weather remains hot and sultry, and the incessant rainfall makes travelling difficult. - What are the timings of the Ellora Caves?
Ellora Caves remain open from 6 AM to 6 PM. It remains closed on every Tuesday. - What are the ticket prices of the Ellora Caves?
The entry fee is INR 40 for Indian, SAARC, and BIMSTEC visitors. Other foreigners need to pay INR 600. Tickets are cheaper if bought online (INR 35 and INR 550 respectively). Also, online tickets help you to jump the long queue at the ticket counters. - How long does it take to explore the Kailasa Temple?
Keep at least 4 hours to enjoy the uniqueness of Kailasa. - Where can I stay in Ellora?
Unlike Ajanta, Ellora offers lots of accommodation options as it is an important Saiva pilgrimage centre. Hotel Kailas is nearest to the entrance gate, followed by Ellora Heritage Resort. We opted for Hotel Kailas owing to its proximity to the caves. - Where can I eat in Ellora?
There are lots of eateries in Ellora, most of them being vegetarian. Bhoj Thali, Garikapati Restaurant, and Green Pure Veg are quite popular. The in-house restaurants of Hotel Kailas and Ellora Heritage Resort are also excellent. - Places to visit near Ellora:
Ajanta Caves: A cluster of 30 Buddhist caves renowned for the extraordinary murals and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar/Aurangabad: Noted for the Aurangabad Caves and the medieval era Bibi Ka Maqbara.
Lonar: The site of Lonar Lake, which was created in the Pleistocene Epoch by a meteorite.
