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Humayun's tomb

Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi: History, Architecture, and Travel Tips.

His name signified ‘lucky’ and ‘auspicious’. Little did he know that destiny would play a cruel game with him, and fortune would evade him forever like an elusive lover. With the blood of Genghis Khan and Amir Timur pulsating through his veins, Humayun was preordained to accomplish greatness. Born to the first Mughal Emperor Babur, Humayun had ascended the throne at 22. Yet, for the rest of his life, he mostly remained a refugee after being driven away from his own empire. Even after he had finally vanquished his enemies and sat on Babur’s throne in Delhi, the ecstasy was momentary. After all, who would have thought that after enduring so many battles, the Emperor would catch his foot on his robe, tumble down the stairs of his library, and face an abrupt death? So much for being ‘lucky’!

Humayun’s demise may have been unceremonious, but his tomb is anything but magnificent. Inspired by his ancestor Timur’s mausoleum in Samarkand, it was the first important Mughal monument to be built in India. It eventually turned into a benchmark for the later Mughal constructions (especially for the Taj Mahal), as Mughal architects followed the approach and strategy of Humayun’s tomb. It is now declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and considered one of the most stunning remains of Mughal architecture.

Humayun's Tomb
Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi.

Who was Humayun:

Born Nasir al-Din Muhammad, Humayun was the eldest son of Babur, who founded the Mughal Empire in India. Following Babur’s death, he inherited the throne of Delhi in 1530 CE. As a young ruler, Humayun was naïve and inexperienced in the affairs of state. Needless to say, he was soon embroiled in strife with other rulers, and even his own brothers revolted against him. Sher Shah Suri became a nuisance to Humayun in particular. Sher Shah continued to pester the young Mughal and routed him entirely in the battle of Kanauj in 1540 CE.

Corners
A hidden corner.

Tossed away from his own empire, Humayun drifted to Lahore, Amarkot (where his son and successor Akbar was born), Kabul, and Kandahar. His brothers turned their backs on him. Humayun finally found refuge in the court of Shah Tahmasp I of Persia. The Shah extended military and logistic assistance to Humayun, who gradually recovered his lost territories and suppressed the rebellion of his brothers. In 1555 CE, after an exile of 15 long years, Humayun once again sat on the throne of Delhi.

Humayun's Tomb
The pioneer of the Mughal style of architecture.

However, misfortune refused to leave Humayun alone. Barely 6 months after he restored his rule in India, Humayun slipped down the stairs of his library, hit his head on a stone edge, and passed away three days later. As Stanley Lanepoole famously said, “If there was a possibility of falling, Humayun was not the man to miss it. He tumbled through his life and tumbled out of it.”

Humayun’s Tomb:

Initially, Humayun was buried in Purana Qila. After Akbar ascended the throne, Humayun was finally laid to rest in his eponymous tomb. This tomb was commissioned by his favourite wife, Bega Begum. The site was chosen owing to its close proximity to the dargah of Nizamuddin Auliya.

Entrance
Entering Humayun’s Tomb.

Humayun’s tomb was designed by the Persian architect Mirak Mirza Ghiyas, who had previously worked in present-day Uzbekistan. The construction kicked off in 1565 CE and was completed in 1572 CE. It cost 1.5 million rupees and was paid entirely by Bega Begum.

Gateway to Humayun's Tomb
Gateway to the tomb.

Humayun’s tomb also houses the graves of Bega Begum, Hamida Banu Begum, Dara Shikoh, Jahandar Shah, Farrukhsiyar, and Alamgir II, along with the graves of many other Mughal family members. In total, there are about 140 tombs in this mausoleum, thus earning the nickname of ‘Dormitory of the Mughals’.

Tomb
The emperor in his final rest.

Charbagh of Humayun’s Tomb:

In Persian, Charbagh means four gardens. Charbagh is a style of architecture born in Persia and brought to India by the Mughals. It implies a quadrilateral garden layout, in which the main building is placed at the centre of the garden, which is traditionally divided into four parts by waterways. It is a symbolic representation of the mythical four gardens and four rivers of Paradise as depicted in the Holy Quran.

Char Bagh
Charbagh of Humayun’s Tomb.

Humayun’s Tomb was the first structure in India to incorporate the concept of Charbagh. In this case, the four squares were further segregated into 8 smaller gardens and thereby created a total of 32 gardens with the mausoleum at its centre. It soon became a paradigm for the later Mughal construction in India and served as an inspiration for the Taj Mahal, built 60 years after Humayun’s Tomb.

Mughal Tomb
The complex is covered in lush greenery.

Architecture of Humayun’s Tomb:

The Humayun’s Tomb follow the ‘Hasht Bihisth’ style. ‘Hasht Bihisth’ literally means eight heavens. In Persian architecture, it implies a floor plan where the central chamber is encircled by eight rooms. The concept is borrowed from Zoroastrian ‘vahista’ or best, which stands for a room adorned with precious gems which symbolise the astrological concept of eight planets and eight heavens. It is also inspired by the Islamic idea of heaven having eight gates. Humayun’s Tomb was the first structure in India to deploy the ‘Hasht Bihisth’ plan of architecture.

Humayun's Tomb
A specimen of Persian ‘Hasht Bihisth’ style.

The Humayun’s Tomb was the pioneer in its usage of unique amalgamation of red sandstone and marble. It also heralded the implementation of various aspects of Rajput architecture, such as the ‘chhatri’ surrounding the central dome.

Climbing up the stairs
Stairs leading to the tomb.

The tomb stands on a raised platform which exhibits 17 arched doorways on each side. It is 154 feet high while the plinth is 299 feet wide. It was the first to use a Persian double dome (consisting of one outer dome and one inner dome with a space between them), which resulted in a dramatic visual impression. The top of the dome possesses a brass finial ending in a crescent.

In contrast to the red exterior, the interior is pristine white. At the centre of the main chamber stands the simple marble cenotaph of Humayun. It is positioned on a north-south axis. Although the real burial chamber lies underground beneath the upper cenotaph (which again became a standard procedure for the later Mughal tombs). The central chamber is decorated with a ‘mihrab ’-like marble lattice or ‘jaali’.

Lattice work
Lattice work at Humayun’s Tomb.

Other monuments in the Humayun’s Tomb complex:

Other than Humayun’s Tomb, the complex houses a handful of other monuments:

Tomb and Mosque of Isa Khan:

Interestingly, both structures predate Humayun’s Tomb by 20 years. They belong to Isa Khan Niyazi, who was a prominent noble of Sher Shah Suri and his son, Islam Shah Suri. The tomb is also the final resting place of other family members of Isa Khan.

Isa Khan Niyazi Tomb
Tomb of Isa Khan Niyazi.

The tomb, built in 1547 CE, follows the Lodi style of architecture, characterised by an octagonal shape and standing on a low plinth. It was made from grey quartzite and red sandstone. Vibrant glazed tiles have been used to enhance the overall look of the tomb.

Mosque of Isa Khan Niyazi
Mosque of Isa Khan Niyazi.

Afsarwala Tomb and Mosque:

Standing midway between Isa Khan’s tomb and Humayun’s tomb, this mausoleum belonged to someone whose identity has been lost in the weathered pages of history.

Arab Sarai:

This was a resthouse built by Bega Begum for the architects and craftsmen who worked on Humayun’s Tomb.

Ruins
Ruins of the Arab Serai.

Nila Gumbad:

Literally meaning blue tower, it is not known who is buried here. The dome of the tomb is covered by blue tiles, and hence the name.

Barber’s Tomb:

Located to the south-east of Humayun’s Tomb, it is believed to belong to Akbar’s barber and hence the name. It was probably built in 1590 CE. Given its proximity to the main tomb and also its being the only other structure inside the Charbagh, it can be presumed that the tomb belonged to someone important and close to the royal family.

Sabz Burj:

This stunning structure lies just outside the complex of Humayun’s Tomb. It is one of the earliest Mughal structures and was heavily inspired by the Central Asian style of glazed tile decoration (found extensively in modern-day Uzbekistan).

SABZ BURJ
Sabz Burz

Important FAQS:

  1. Where is Humayun’s Tomb located?

Humayun’s Tomb is located in Nizamuddin, New Delhi (near the citadel of Purana Qila).

  • What are the nearest metro stations to Humayun’s Tomb?

Jor Bagh metro station (yellow line) and Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium (purple line) are the nearest metro stations.

Humayun's Tomb
A must-visit in Delhi.
  • What are the timings of Humayun’s Tomb?

The Humayun’s Tomb complex remains open from sunrise to sunset.

  • Is a ticket required for entrance?

Yes! For Indians, the ticket is INR 40 and INR 600 for foreigners. Entry is free for children up to the age of 15. You can also buy a combined ticket for Humayun’s Tomb, Sundar Nursery, and the museum. The combined ticket costs INR 115 for Indians and INR 950 for foreigners. You can also book an online ticket.

Postcard
A postcard from Delhi.
  • What is the best time to visit Humayun’s Tomb?

Given the blazing hot summers (when heat wave is quite the norm), winter (November to February) and the shoulder months of October and March are perfect for a trip to Humayun’s Tomb.