Bukhara “is the cupola of Islam” and “its environs are adorned with the brightness of the light of doctors and jurists and its surroundings embellished with the rarest of high attainments.” – Ala-ad-Din Malik Juvaini, a 13th-century historian.
Bukhara is revered as the holiest city in Central Asia. Classified as one of the most complete examples of medieval towns in Central Asia, Bukhara is teeming with mosques and madrassas decked with blue tiles and mosaics, a massive royal fortress, vibrant bazaars, and ancient winding roads that witnessed the marches of Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan, and Amir Timur.
Table of Contents
History of Bukhara:
Bukhara’s past was nothing short of illustrious. Ismail Samani founded the Samanid dynasty and made Bukhara his capital. With this, the remarkable history of Bukhara took its first step. Throughout the 9th and 10th centuries CE, Bukhara evolved into ‘Bukhoro-i-Sharif’ or Noble Bukhara. It prospered as the religious and cultural centre of Central Asia. Bukhara’s milieu nurtured eminent scholars and poets such as the preeminent hadith scholar Abu Ismail al-Bukhari, the rationalist philosopher and scientist Ibn Sina, the poets Rudaki and Ferdousi, who composed the epic ‘Shahnama’.
However, in 1220 CE, the marauding Genghis Khan eclipsed Bukhara’s brilliance. A century later, it succumbed to the rise of Samarkand under Amir Timur.
In the 16th century, the Shibanids breathed a second life into Bukhara when they made it the capital of their khanate. Under the Shibanid rule, Bukhara became home to more than 100 madrassas and 300 mosques, as well as countless bazaars and caravanserais.
Later in the 18th century, an emirate was established in Bukhara under the Mangit dynasty. This emirate ruled Bukhara until the Soviets incorporated it into the newly created Uzbek SSR in 1924.
What to see in Bukhara?
Poi Kalon Complex:
This remarkable complex is Bukhara’s most iconic attraction. It comprises of three astounding structures:
Kalon Minaret:
In Tajik, the word ‘Kalon’ means great. This jaw-dropping minaret was the handiwork of the Karkhanid ruler, Arslan Khan. Completed in 1127 CE, it used to be the tallest building in Central Asia.
The 47 m tall minaret is an architectural masterpiece. It comprises 14 different ornamental bands and also exhibits the first use of blue glazed tiles which would eventually distinguish the Central Asian architecture.
Even Genghis Khan, the great Mongol conqueror, was awed by the Kalon Minaret. While his troops ransacked the rest of Bukhara, Genghis spared it from his wrath.
Kalon Mosque:
Genghis Khan ravaged the original mosque, rebuilt in the 16th century at the foot of the Kalon Minaret.
The mosque’s courtyard is picturesque, showcasing incredible tile work. It is an active mosque.
Mir-i-Arab Madrassah:
Located across the Kalon Mosque, the Mir-i-Arab Madrassah is an active educational institution and can only be admired from the outside.
With its gleaming blue domes and intricate glazed tile work, it is regarded as one of the most striking attractions of Uzbekistan.
- Timings: The Poi Kalon complex remains open every day. There are no strict timings. However, the Kalon Mosque remains open from 8 AM to 5 PM.
- Tickets: No entry fee is required for this complex.
- Time required: Around 2 hours.
- Pro tip:
- The best times to visit the Poi Kalon complex are early morning (when the grounds are empty) and late evening (when it is illuminated).
- For photography, sunset and evenings are the best.
- The hordes of tourists led by flag-bearing guides start pouring inside the Poi Kalon complex after 10 AM. So, try visiting before that if you want to explore peacefully.
Ulugh Beg Madrassah:
Smaller than the one found at Samarkand’s Registan, it was built by Amir Timur’s grandson Mirza Ulugh Beg. Ulugh Beg, a prolific mathematician and astronomer himself, set up many madrassahs for the spread of scientific knowledge.
Located a stone’s throw away from the Poi Kalon complex, it was constructed in 1417 CE and is believed to be the oldest madrassah of Central Asia.
- Timings: Every day from 9 AM to 6 PM.
- Tickets: No entry fee is required here.
Abdul Aziz Madrassah:
Situated just across the Ulugh Beg Madrassah, this 16th-century madrassah boasts one of the finest arches in Uzbekistan. The arch is embellished with vibrant stalactites and majolica.
The prayer room, now converted into a wood carving museum, is the focal point where the ceiling is furnished with amazing ‘ghanch’ stalactites.
- Timings: Every day from 9 AM to 6 PM. Try visiting early before the shops inside start their business.
- Tickets: No tickets are required for the madrassah.
The Ark:
A royal town-within-town, the Ark is the oldest structure of Bukhara. Archaeologists have unearthed traces of settlements dating back to the 5th century CE. The Ark served as the residence of the emirs of Bukhara till 1920 when it was bombarded by the Soviets.
Though the Ark is now mostly reduced to wreckage, it houses a few intriguing sights. The 17th-century Juma Mosque graces the entrance and is adorned with wooden stalactite carved columns. The oldest surviving part of the Ark is the ‘Reception and Coronation Court’, the basement of which lodged the royal treasury. There are also remnants of open-air stables and royal apartments.
The top of the Ark exhibits an archaeological park where remnants of mosques and hammams have been excavated.
- Timings: Thursday to Tuesday from 9 AM to 6 PM. The Ark remains closed on Wednesday.
- Tickets: The entry fee is UZS 40,000.
- Pro-tip:
- The best time to visit the Ark is during the sunset. The Poi Kalon complex looks spectacular from the archaeological park.
- For photography, sunset is the perfect time.
- Avoid noon as it will be difficult to explore the Ark under the scorching sun.
Bolo Hauz Mosque:
Located near the Ark, the striking Bolo Hauz Mosque was the personal place of worship of Bukhara’s emirs. Set up in 1718 CE, the mosque is adorned with intricately carved and vibrantly painted wooden columns. It is an active place of worship.
Timings: The mosque remains open every day.
Tickets: The entry is free for all.
Pro-tip: You need to cover your head to enter the mosque. So, carry a scarf or shawl.
Chor Minor:
In the Tajik tongue, Chor Minor means four minarets. This refers to the four decorative towers atop the structure.
The Chor Minor is tucked away inside a maze of alleys. It was probably a gateway to a now-destroyed madrassah. It stands amidst a pretty rose garden. Inside the Chor Minor, there are several souvenir shops. The roof can be accessed through a narrow stairway. The view from above, especially during sunset, is breathtaking.
The four towers are furnished with blue-glazed ceramic tiles. The decorative motifs are believed to represent the four religions of Central Asia – Islam, Zoroastrianism, Buddhism, and Christianity.
- Timings: Remains open from 8 AM to 8 PM. The Chor Minor is closed on Sundays.
- Tickets: No entry fee is required to explore the outside. However, you need to pay a nominal fee of UZS 20,000 to access the roof.
Lyabi Hauz:
This is a bustling plaza, teeming with shops selling carpets, ceramics, dolls, cafes, and whatnot. The plaza was built around a pool in 1620 CE. It was once habituated by Uzbek men, who dallied here sipping tea and playing chess.
On the eastern fringe of the Labi Hauz is a statue of the acclaimed ‘wise fool’ Khoja Nasiruddin riding his pet donkey.
Nadir Divanbegi Madrassah:
This madrassah stands just beside the Lyabi Hauz. Originally, it was a caravanserai. However, it was turned into a madrassah in 1622 CE when the emir of Bukhara confused it with a learning centre.
This madrassah exhibits one of the most phenomenal tile works in Bukhara. Interestingly, its façade displays animals instead of the traditional geometric motifs contravening the Islamic prohibition against the depiction of living beings. It shows a pair of peacocks holding lambs flanking the Sun with a human face.
- Timings: Open every day from 8 AM to 5 PM. In the evening, traditional song and dance programmes are organised inside.
- Tickets: Entry is free. However, you need to pay a hefty sum to watch the traditional revelry.
Nadir Divanbegi Khanaka:
On Lyabi Hauz’s western side, the Nadir Divanbegi Khanaka was a resting lodge for the Sufi dervishes. The dervishes also performed religious ceremonies, parted philosophical instructions, and held debates.
Timings: Open every day from 9 AM to 6 PM.
Tickets: A ticket is only required to enter inside, which houses a museum.
Kukeldash Madrassah:
In its heyday, the Kukeldash Madrassah was the largest Islamic school in Central Asia. Built in 1569 CE, it now hosts puppet shows in the evening.
Maghok-i-Attar:
This is the oldest surviving mosque of Central Asia and one of the few buildings in Bukhara that survived the Mongol invasion of Genghis Khan. Here, the archaeologists have excavated the remains of a 5th-century Zoroastrian fire temple. It is now used as a carpet museum.
Timing: It is closed on Sunday and Wednesday. On other days, the visit is allowed from 9 AM to 5 PM.
Dome-styled bazaars:
Previously, Bukhara was characterized by the presence of several domed bazaars. The roofs were designed to draw in cool air during the searing summers. At present, only three domed bazaars exist – Taki Telpak Furushon (cap makers’ bazaar), Taki Sarrafon (money changers’ bazaar), and Taki Zargaron (jewellers’ bazaar). The domed markets are a treasure trove of exquisite carpets, vibrant ceramics, bright fabrics, cute dolls, dry fruits, and so on.
How many days are required for Bukhara:
Bukhara’s old town is dotted with some 140 protected monuments. You’ll need at least two days to experience the main attractions. The Poi Kalon complex calls for a second visit in the evening when it is illuminated to perfection. We spent 2 full days and soaked in the historic aura of Bukhara.
2-day itinerary for Bukhara:
Start your day with the Poi Kalon complex, Abdul Aziz Madrassa, and Ulugh Beg Madrassa. Post-lunch, explore the surroundings of Lyabi Hauz such as Nadir Divanbegi Madrassa, Nader Divanbegi Khanaka, and the statue Khoja Nasiruddin.
On your second day, go to the Ark, followed by the Bolo Hauz Mosque, Maghok-i-Attar, and Chor Minor. In the evening, visit the spotlit Poi Kalon complex and the bustling domed bazaars of Bukhara.
1-day itinerary for Bukhara:
If you have just one day left, concentrate on the Poi Kalon complex, Abdul Aziz Madrassa, Ulugh Beg Madrassa, the Ark, Bolo Hauz Mosque, and Chor Minor. Squeeze a quick stroll around the Lyabi Hauz.
Important FAQs:
Where is Bukhara located?
Bukhara is located in the southwestern part of Uzbekistan, near the border of Turkmenistan. The approximate distance of other major Uzbek cities from Bukhara is:
- Tashkent – 572 km
- Samarkand – 269 km
- Khiva – 431 km
- Andijan – 856 km
How can I reach Bukhara?
By train: The most convenient way to reach Bukhara is by train. From Tashkent and Samarkand, you can take the high-speed Afrosiyob train. If you are travelling from Khiva or Andijan, avail the overnight sleeper trains. You can book your tickets from the official website of Uzbekistan Railways.
By air: Bukhara has an international airport. You can travel by flight from Tashkent to Bukhara. However, flight schedules undergo frequent changes, so check thoroughly before booking your seat.
By road: The bus is also a suitable option for inter-city movement. Check avtoticket.uz for tickets.
We travelled to Bukhara from Khiva. We did a road trip and explored the Kyzyl Kum desert and Khorezm desert fortresses on our way. We had booked this day trip with the Khiva-based Islambek Travels. The pocket pinch was USD 79.
What is the best time to visit Bukhara?
Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to mid-November) are the best time to visit. Avoid summer as temperature soars beyond 40 degrees Celsius. Also, winters are bitterly cold thanks to the Polar winds.
Where can I stay in Bukhara?
Bukhara’s family-run B&Bs are arguably the best in entire Uzbekistan both in terms of comfort and hospitality. Most of these B&Bs are concentrated inside the alleys of the old town.
- Rahmat Guest House – This was hands down our best stay in Uzbekistan. Hospitality, aesthetics, comfort, location, price – everything was on point. Also, the breakfast platter was a treat to the eyes and the tongue as well. For 2 nights, we paid USD 64. We got our rooms through Booking.com.
- Komil Bukhara Boutique Hotel
- Art Guest House Usto
- Hovli Poyon B&B
- Hotel Mironshox
- Madina Mahribon
Where can I eat in Bukhara?
- Old Bukhara – Rooftop with delicious Uzbek food.
- Minzifa – Rooftop with wide choices of food.
- Bella Italia – Italian cuisine.
- Mavrigi – Outdoor sitting with traditional meals.
- Bolo Hauz Chaikhana – Traditional Uzbek tea house.
- Lyabi Hauz – Bustling restaurant in the Lyabi Hauz plaza.
Can I get vegetarian food in Bukhara?
Minzifa has plenty of vegetarian options including vegetable shashliks. Mavrigi serves a hearty red lentil soup with pieces of bread. In other restaurants, you will find lots of fresh salads, soups, and breads.
How to get around Bukhara?
Our B&B was in close proximity to the major attractions. So, we explored Bukhara mostly on foot. Also, walking helped us to feel the vibe of Bukhara.
There are also tuktuks. You can hop on one when your legs give in (like ours when we were about to visit the Ark!).
You can also book cabs easily on the Yandex Go app.
What to pack for Bukhara?
There is no strict dress code in Bukhara. However, most of the attractions are religious. Hence, pack modest dresses that cover your arms and legs. Avoid shorts, miniskirts, off-shoulder dresses, or any mid-riff baring clothes.
Exploring Bukhara involves lots of walking. Pack comfortable shoes and sandals.
Don’t forget your sunscreen, moisturiser, wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses, and umbrellas.
If you are visiting in October, pack light woollens as evenings get a bit chilly.
Where to shop in Bukhara?
The domed markets in Bukhara have fantastic collections of carpets, ceramics, junk jewellery, miniature paintings, and so on.
Bukhara Artisan Development Centre, where you can watch artisans at work along with purchasing handmade stuff.
Money exchange in Bukhara:
Often, B&Bs offer money exchange at government rates. You can also change money at Asaka Bank, Kapital Bank, and the National Bank of Uzbekistan.
Travel agencies in Bukhara:
The leading travel agencies in Bukhara are Emir Travel, Komil Travel, and Minzifa Travel.
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