The Ellora Caves embody the final manifestation of rock-cut architecture in India, the beginning of which can be traced back to the Mauryan-era Nagarjuni and Barabar Caves in present-day Bihar. There are 34 caves in Ellora, often ranked among the most phenomenal instances of cave temples in the sub-continent. The caves here are celebrated for their architectural and sculptural splendour. On top of that, three belief systems were carved onto Ellora’s collonaded caverns. Here, the subtle elegance of the Buddhist caves gives way to the monumental vastness of the Hindu excavations, before receding into the quiet austerity of the Jain caves.
Rock-cutting activity in Ellora was launched by the Hindus from the mid-6th century CE. As the curtain was falling on the century, excavations started in the Buddhist caves. By the 7th century CE, work was underway simultaneously in the Hindu and Buddhist caves. The Jains came in at the tail end. Carving of the Jain caves began as the 8th century CE was drawing to an end, and continued flourishing in the 9th and 10th centuries. For nearly four centuries, Ellora remained lively with artistic activity. Ellora, thus, imply a pluralistic co-existence – one that has been further inferred from the recent analytical studies. Ellora is a specimen of how multiple traditions occupied the same physical and cultural space, sometimes sequentially, sometimes simultaneously. It was an outcome of shared resources and patronage as well as philosophical forbearance.
While the Ellora Caves are a repository of architectural ingenuity and ornate sculptures, it is quite gruelling to cover each of them. Most of us visit on a tight schedule, and the Kailasa Temple itself commands at least half a day. So, in this blog, we have listed 12 caves of Ellora that you can’t miss.
BUDDHIST CAVES OF ELLORA
As the prominence of Pitalkhora, Nasik, Junnar, and Kanheri ebbed away, the Buddhist monks began foraging for new sites of habitation. Their search led them to the virgin soils of Ellora and Aurangabad. They were the first to start excavation in Ellora, and ultimately carved out 12 caves. The majority of the Buddhist caves in Ellora are a striking mixture of ‘chaitya’ and ‘vihara’, barring Cave 10. Of them, the following five caves are a must-visit.
Cave 5:
Why visit: Locally known as Maharwada, Cave 5 is the largest single-storied cave in Ellora. The cave’s plan is rather peculiar. It consists of an extensive hall supported by 24 kalasa-topped massive pillars arranged in two rows. The floor is divided into three aisles by two raised rock-cut platforms.
What to look for: Though devoid of any sculptural excellence, this cave is worth visiting for its bizarre plan. Perhaps, Cave 5 may have been a refectory where the monks had their meals.
Quick insight: The main shrine has a preaching Buddha flanked by attendants. Look out for the 19 cells sculpted on the side walls and a small shrine of Buddha near the entrance.
Cave 6:
Why visit: Though the front is completely ruined, Cave 6 deserves a peek solely for the exceptional sculptures.
What to look for: On the southern wall, the carving of Mahamayuri, the Buddhist goddess of learning, is beguiling. She is accompanied by a peacock on the right, while a man is reading a manuscript on a folding table near her feet. The colossal figures of Avalokitesvara and Vajrapani stand vigilant on both sides of the entrance.
Quick insight: The sculptures are elegantly chiselled and provide an introspection of Buddhist iconography.
Cave 10:
Why visit: Also known as Vishwakarma and ‘Sutar-ka-Jhopda’ or ‘Carpenter’s Hut’, this is the finest Buddhist cave in Ellora. It is the only ‘chaitya-griha’ in the Buddhist group and resembles Caves 19 and 26 of Ajanta. Vishwakarma is also believed to be the last of the rock-cut ‘chaitya-griha’ in western India.
What to look for: The vast and lofty apsidal ‘chaitya-griha’ is a vision. It is divided into a central nave and side aisles by 28 octagonal pillars, with the triforium embellished with Buddha figures in ’dharma-chakra-pravartana’ mudra. At the end of the hall stands the colossal stupa with a 3.3 m high Buddha carved on its front. Buddha is seated under a huge Bodhi tree in ‘pralambapada asana’ and shown in ‘vyakhyana’ or teaching mudra. Its vaulted roof with ribs is equally fascinating.
Quick insight: Cave 10 has an upper storey, which was probably the musicians’ gallery. It has a pillared verandah embroidered with a trefoil arch flanked by a Vidyadhara with attendants. Look out for the parapet, which is adorned with ‘mithuna’ and elephant figures.
Cave 11:
Why visit: Though nicknamed ‘Do Thal’ (double storied), Cave 11 has three stories actually. An excavation in the late 19th century disclosed its ground floor.
What to look for: The three floors are decorated with wonderful Buddhist icons. Make your way up to the top floor by climbing steep stairs. Carved deeper into the cave, the sanctum is graced by a massive Buddha in ‘pralambapada’ pose. Along with Tara and Avalokitesvara, figures of Durga and Ganesha are also sculpted here.
The first floor has three shrines, one of which shows Sujata offering food to Buddha. Here, Buddha is seated in ‘bhumi-sparsha’ pose and flanked by Padmapani and Vajrapani. Figures of Maitreya holding a flower, Sthirachakra yielding a sword, and Jnanaketu with a pennan are etched on the side walls. Jambhala, the Buddhist god of wealth, and Tara are sculpted above the Bodhisattvas.
The sanctum in the ground floor follows the similar pattern of a Buddha figure manned by Padmapani and Vajrapani.
Quick insight: Don’t miss the shrine of Avalokitesvara to the left of the entrance. The main deity is Rakta Lokesvara, flanked by Tara and Bhrikuti.
Cave 12:
Why visit: Known as ‘Tin Thal’, Cave 12 is the largest monastic complex of Ellora. The most intriguing feature of this cave is that it is profusely decorated with sculptures of Buddhist goddesses. This implies the rise of Vajrayana Buddhism, which finally led to the decline of Buddhism in India.
What to look for: Start with the top floor, which is a repository of Buddhist iconography and is finished. The left wall is adorned with 7 ‘manushi’ Buddhas in meditating pose, each having his unique tree and halo at his back. On the right wall, 7 Bodhisattvas are sitting in ‘vyakhyana’ pose with an umbrella over their heads. The back wall is embellished with 12 Buddhist goddesses such as Chunda, Mahamayuri, Bhrikuti, and Janguli.
Quick insight: The ground floor has an interesting sculpture in 9 panels representing the Buddha mandala, the magic diagram of the Cosmos. Also notable is the shrine door flanked by Maitreya and Manjusri, both holding flowers.
HINDU CAVES OF ELLORA
The largest congregation of caves in Ellora belongs to the Hindus. Located in the middle of the complex, there are 16 Hindu caves. The excavation began in the 6th century CE. In the beginning, the Hindu caves followed the Buddhist models. Gradually, they soon carved out their own niche, which culminated with the Kailasa Temple in the 8th century CE.
Cave 14:
Why visit: Dubbed as ‘Ravana ki Khai’ or Ravana’s Pit, this enormous cave consists of a courtyard, a mandapa with 16 ‘kumbha-valli’ pillars topped with ‘kirtimukha’ brackets, and a shrine with a ‘pradakshina patha’ around it.
What to look for: Cave 14 resembles a sculpture gallery as the walls here are embellished with well-crafted sculptures. Start from the left wall and marvel at the dynamic figures of Durga with her foot over her lion, Gaja Lakshmi seating on lotus, Varaha rescuing Bhudevi, Vishnu in his abode Vaikuntha with his consorts Sridevi and Bhudevi, and lastly, Vishnu and Lakshmi with their attendants.
Move over to the right side, where the walls depict Saiva lores such as Siva slaying Andhakasura, Ravana shaking Mount Kailasa, Siva dancing the Tandava, Siva and Parvati playing the game of ‘chausar’, and Durga slaying Mahisasura.
Quick insight: Make sure to look into the circumambulatory path where the walls are embellished with carvings of Virabhadra yielding a ‘parashu’ or battle axe and a ‘damaru’, Saptamatrika or seven goddesses, Ganesha, Kala, and Kali.
Cave 15:
Why visit: Set on a much higher level that needs to be accessed by several steep stairs, Cave 15 is locally called ‘Dashavatar’ owing to the profusion of sculptures depicting Vishnu’s incarnation. The cave is double-storied, and its plan bears resemblance to that of Caves 11 and 12 of the Buddhist group, attesting to their mutual influence on each other.
What to look for: Start the tour from the upper floor, which is braced by 44 pillars. Like Cave 14, the sculptures on one side portray a Vaishnava theme, while those on the other side are Saiva. On the northern wall, you can find Siva slaying Andhakasura, dancing Siva, Siva and Parvati playing ‘chausar’, Kalyana Sundara Murti illustrating the wedding of Siva and Parvati, Siva as Gangadhara, Ravana shaking Mount Kailasa, Siva protecting Markandeya from the god of death Yama, Ligodbhava Siva, and Siva as Tripurari. Correspondingly, the other wall depicts Krishna lifting Govardhana, Vishnu reclining on Shesha, Vishnu riding Garuda, Varaha saving Prithvi, Vamana as Trivikrama, and Narasimha slaying Hiranyakashipu.
The vestibule also has some intriguing sculptures, such as Ganesa, a meditating Parvati, Gaja-Lakshmi, and Karthikeya.
Quick insight: The sculptures in Cave 15 are set apart by immense power and formidable energy and appear as if they are erupting from their frames with their overwhelming might. Many of them are colossal, a characteristic feature of Rashtrakuta art.
Cave 16:
Why visit: Kailasa is undoubtedly the finest cave temple in the world. Its architectural acumen isn’t just about its monumental scale, but accomplishing an unthinkable, impossible feat. It is also the largest monolithic rock-cut structure in the world. The temple was hewn from a single mass of rock secured by cutting three big trenches in the three sides of the hill. Everything – pillars, stairways, shrines, sculptures – is all part of a single block.
What to look for: The Kailasa Temple will easily take half of your day. It is a living mythological landscape, where the Hindu deities, mythical heroes, and celestial beings have been carved with unmatched finesse. Don’t miss the key carvings of the Kailasa, such as Gaja Lakshmi near the entrance, Mahisasuramardini, Mahayogi Siva, Siva slaying Andhakasura, Siva as Nataraja, Narasimha killing Hiranyakashipu, Ravana Anugraha Murti, and the panels from Ramayana and Mahabharata.
Quick insight: Most visitors overlook a few key details of Kailasa, such as the River Goddess Shrine in the northwest corner, traces of paintings in the entrance portico of the sanctum, Yajna Shala on the southern court, and a sculptural gallery encircling the temple.
Cave 21:
Why visit: Named Ramesvara, Cave 21 is regarded as one of the finest rock-cut temples in India. This Saiva cave boasts some of the most beautiful sculptures, rivalling even the carvings of the Kailasa. The handiwork corresponds to the Vakataka-Gupta tradition, thus Ramesvara can be dated to the mid-6th century CE.
What to look for: Set aside a considerable length of time to explore this fascinating cave. The courtyard has a Siva’s Nandi sitting atop a pedestal. Wonder at the exquisitely carved river goddesses on either side of the entrance – Ganga on ‘makara’ in the north and Yamuna on a tortoise in the south.
Now, turn towards the ‘kumbha-valli’ pillars at the front, graced by charming ‘salabhanjikas’ and their attendant ‘ganas’. Above them are ‘shardulas’ crowned by a frieze of dainty floral scrolls and frolicking ‘ganas’.
The northern gallery has Karthikeya flanked by goat-headed Naigamesha, Kalyana Sundara Murti portraying Siva’s marriage with Parvati, Parvati performing penance, Mahisha-mardini Durga, and Ravana shaking Kailasa.
On the southern side, there are Siva-Parvati busy playing ‘chausar’, gruesome figures of Kala and Kali, Saptamatrika along with Ganesha and Virbhadra, Veenadhari Siva, and dancing Siva.
Quick insight: Don’t miss the sensuous ‘chauri’ bearer adorning each pilaster on either side of the shrine. Their coiffure and ornaments are carved superbly.
Cave 29:
Why visit: One of the largest caves in western India, Cave 29 is also known as Dumar Lena and Sita-ki-Nahani as it lies near the waterfall. Its plan bears resemblance to the main cave of Elephanta.
What to look for: Dumar Lena is embellished with mammoth carvings. Right after you enter, your attention will be drawn to the colossal carving of a ferocious Siva slaying Andhakasura. On the left, the recurring carving of Ravana shaking Kailasa is visible.
There are two verandahs. In the south verandah, one wall illustrates Siva-Parvati playing ‘chausar’, while the other depicts the divine couple’s wedding.
In the corresponding northern verandah, Lakulisha is carved on one wall and Siva dancing the ‘Tandava’ on the other.
Quick insight: Though enormous, the sculptures lack the elegance of those found in Kailasa or Ramesvara caves. The figures are stumpy and stout with disproportionate limbs. The divine aura, as felt in Kailasa, too, is missing.
JAIN CAVES OF ELLORA
Tucked in the northernmost part of the hill, the Jain group consists of only 5 caves. You need to hitchhike a ride on the battery-operated golf carts to visit them. The Rashtrakuta king Amoghavarsha, a devout Jain himself, was the probable patron of these caves. Dated to 9th and 10th centuries, they belong to the Digambara sect of Jainism. Though the sculptural representation in the Jain caves is limited and repetitive, 2 caves are remarkable.
Cave 32:
Why visit: With a fancy name like Indra Sabha, Cave 32 is undoubtedly the most ornate Jain cave in Ellora. A double-storied cave, it has a small monolithic shrine in its court. To the right stands a huge elephant and on the left a beautiful dhvaja-stambha. The Indra Sabha is brimming with elegant sculptures showcasing Jain iconography.
What to look for: The ground floor, though unfinished, has two large carvings of Shantinath, the 16th Tirthankara. The daunting stairs, leading to the top floor, will land you in a verandah. Here, Parshvanatha stands on the left wall, Gomateshvara on the right, and Mahavira in the shrine. Mahavira is guarded by Matanga, the Jain god of wealth, and Siddhayika, the Jain goddess of prosperity.
The 12 pillars supporting the upper floor are chiselled masterpieces, topped with ‘ghata-pallava’ motif. The sculptures are of recurring them – Matanga and Siddhayika under banana and mango trees respectively, Parshvanatha, Gomateshvara, and Mahavira. Needless to say, the images are carved to perfection.
Quick insight: The entire Indra Sabha was once painted with a variety of motifs. Sadly, they have been blackened over the time.
Cave 33:
Why visit: This cave is called Jagannath Sabha. Like Indra Sabha, this is also a double-storied cave.
What to look for: The plan of the upper floor is akin to Cave 32, consisting of a shrine and a pillared hall. The walls are adorned with a multitude of sculptures of Parshvanatha and Mahavira. The shrine, as usual, is guarded by the elephant-riding Matanga and Siddhayika, sitting on a lion. The door frame is intricately carved with Ganga and Yamuna on either side and 24 Tirthankaras on the door jamb. The upper floor is notable for the fragments of painting, such as the ‘Samavasarana’ that once decorated the wide ceiling.
The ground floor reeks of poor planning. The same pattern of Jain icons are visible here.
Quick insight: Look out for the traces of inscriptions on the pillars in the ground floor. Though mostly weathered, they provide a timeline for the construction of Jagannath Sabha.
Important FAQs:
Where are the Ellora Caves located?
The Ellora Caves is located in Aurangabad (presently Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar) district of Maharastra. The distance is roughly 30 kms, covered in an hour by road.
How can I reach the Ellora Caves?
By air: The nearest airport is Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar, which is connected well with New Delhi, Mumbai, and Hyderabad. There are no direct flights from Kolkata. You have to opt for connecting flights via New Delhi or Mumbai.
By train: The nearest rail station to the Ellora Caves is Bhusaval Junction. Bhusaval is 160 km away from Ellora and it takes 4 hours by road to reach Ellora. From Kolkata, you can opt for Pune Duronto Express (12222) and Gitanjali Express (12859).
What is the best time to visit the Ellora Caves?
November to March is the best time to visit the Ellora Caves. The weather remains cool and pleasant, perfect for exploring the rocky terrains of the caves. Although, expect hordes of tourists during this time.
The monsoon months (July to September) turns the surrounding lush. However, the weather remains hot and sultry, and the incessant rainfall makes travelling difficult.
What are the timings of the Ellora Caves?
Ellora Caves remain open from 6 AM to 6 PM. It remains closed on every Tuesday.
What are the ticket prices of the Ellora Caves?
The entry fee is INR 40 for Indian, SAARC, and BIMSTEC visitors. Other foreigners need to pay INR 600. Tickets are cheaper if bought online (INR 35 and INR 550 respectively). Also, online tickets help you to jump the long queue at the ticket counters.
How long does it take to explore the Ellora Caves?
Set aside a full day for exploring the caves.
Where can I stay in Ellora?
Unlike Ajanta, Ellora offers lots of accommodation options as it is an important Saiva pilgrimage centre. Hotel Kailas is nearest to the entrance gate, followed by Ellora Heritage Resort. We opted for Hotel Kailas owing to its proximity to the caves.
Where can I eat in Ellora?
There are lots of eateries in Ellora, most of them being vegetarian. Bhoj Thali, Garikapati Restaurant, and Green Pure Veg are quite popular. The in-house restaurants of Hotel Kailas and Ellora Heritage Resort are also excellent.
Places to visit near Ellora:
Ajanta Caves: A cluster of 30 Buddhist caves renowned for the extraordinary murals and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Chhatrapati Sambhaji Nagar/Aurangabad: Noted for the Aurangabad Caves and the medieval era Bibi Ka Maqbara.
Lonar: The site of Lonar Lake, which was created in the Pleistocene Epoch by a meteorite.
