The night tiptoed gingerly in Manas. The unseasonal rain, lashing round the clock, had finally yielded. A veil of tattered clouds wrapped the waxing moon; its glow caught in a web of light and shadow. Crickets played their symphony and frogs complemented with their ribbit, occasionally accompanied by the rustling of trees. The light of the verandah flickered as I stood on the gooey ground, with the pet dogs of the resort standing vigilant. My eyes were fixed on the other side of the road, beyond the border of the electrified fence. The silhouette of the forest framed the nocturnal realm, posing as a wormhole for another dimension. As the night deepened, the Manas National Park continued its surreal avatar.
If Kaziranga is Assam’s celebrated wildlife icon, Manas is its quieter, wilder sibling. Spread across the Baksa, Chirang, Kokrajhar, and Udalguri districts of Assam, Manas is a living landscape where rivers, forests, grasslands, and mountains assemble to create one of the richest ecosystems in South Asia. The tranquil forest of Manas also tells a tale of resilience. Once afflicted with severe ecological decline due to the political unrest resulting from the Bodo Movement, Manas was placed on the List of World Heritage in Danger in 1992. The habitat degradation was so dire that the iconic one-horned rhinos completely disappeared from Manas.
Eventually, stability returned, and conservation efforts peaked. Forest infrastructure was rebuilt, patrols increased, anti-poaching camps were built, and the local Bodo community was actively involved in every sphere. These combined efforts yielded remarkable results, and UNESCO removed Manas from its List of World Heritage in Danger in 2011. Today, every safari in Manas is not only a chance to witness wildlife, but also an opportunity to experience India’s most inspiring examples of ecological perseverance.
In this blog, we take you through a journey into the wild heart of Assam, sharing the park’s spectacular landscapes, unforgettable wildlife encounters, practical travel tips, and the remarkable story that makes Manas more than just another national park.
ABOUT MANAS NATIONAL PARK:
Tucked away in the foothills of the Eastern Himalayas in Assam, the densely forested Manas National Park stretches over an area of 950 square kilometres. It runs along the Indo-Bhutan border, seamlessly blending with Royal Manas National Park and thus creating a remarkable transboundary ecosystem. The wildlife wanders across the international border thanks to the uninterrupted wilderness, fostering a refuge for countless endangered species.
Its name stems from the Manas River, a tributary of the mighty Brahmaputra. The river meanders through the park, nourishing its grasslands and forests. Once a hunting reserve for the Cooch Behar royal family, Manas is now designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site owing to its exceptional biodiversity and spectacular natural landscape. In addition, Manas is also part of the Project Tiger Reserve, Elephant Reserve, and Biosphere Reserve.
WHY VISIT MANAS NATIONAL PARK:
Unlike other national parks, Manas stands out for its diverse landscapes. Fed by the flood waters of the Manas-Beki system, the ecosystem here sustains three kinds of vegetation – semi-evergreen forest, mixed dry and moist deciduous forest, and alluvial grasslands. This is also reflected by the presence of an extraordinary range of flora and fauna, from large mammals to rare birds and reptiles.
Manas is home to 60 species of mammals, 42 species of reptiles, 7 species of amphibians, and over 450 species of birds, of which 26 are globally threatened, including the Bengal Florican. Noteworthy are iconic species such as Bengal Tigers, Elephants, one-horned Rhinos, Clouded Leopards, Sloth Bears, Gaur, Water Buffaloes, and so on. Moreover, Manas provides refuge to a few rare species not found elsewhere in the world, such as Pygmy Hogs, Hispid Hares, Golden Langurs, and Assam Roofed Turtle.
OUR JOURNEY TO MANAS:
The Brahmaputra Mail clocked in perfectly at Barpeta Road, the nearest railway station of Manas National Park. A quick breakfast later, we set off for the 22 km ride to Manas. Ideally, this short distance should take no more than 30 minutes. Not here, though. The stretch of road is awful, marred by potholes and worsened by the untimely downpour. For the next 1.5 hours, we tossed and turned inside the car. The only relief was the picturesque Manas River, which accompanied us throughout the bumpy ride.
The roads improved as we reached Manas. The scenery changed too, as the river gave way to an endless stretch of tea gardens. The car took a right turn from the forest’s main entrance. With the forest on the left and tea gardens on the right, we sped off towards our resort. A group of rescued elephants were grazing nearby, while we strained our eyes to spot a rhino camouflaging behind tall grasses. A pair of owls stared at us from their nest. Over the next 3 days, this owl couple would meet and greet us when we embarked on the safaris.
RANGES OF MANAS NATIONAL PARK:
Manas is broadly divided into three ranges:
- Bansbari: In terms of tourism infrastructure, access to jeep and elephant safari, and accommodation, Bansbari is the most developed of the three. Here, the landscape is a mélange of open meadows, grasslands, patches of sal forest, and the picturesque Manas River. Bansbari offers excellent opportunities for spotting elephants, rhinos, gaurs, water buffaloes, and a wide variety of birds.
- Bhuyanpara: Dominated by abundant grasslands, Bhuyanpara is best known for spotting the elusive Bengal Florican. The scenery is dotted with various grassland birds along with large herbivorous mammals. This range offers a quieter and more secluded safari experience.
- Panbari: In contrast to Bansbari and Bhuyanpara, Panbari is characterised by dense forests. While spotting animals is hard here, it is one of Manas’s best locations for birdwatching and exploring its splendid floral diversity.
OUR EXPERIENCE IN MANAS:
A recurrent, unseasonal rainfall ambushed our visit to Manas National Park. We tried our best to salvage the wildlife experience.
Day 1:
The sky was already overcast when we reached our resort. As we were relishing lunch, the rain started to lash. With no sign of the rain abating, we stayed put in our rooms.
Day 2:
The relentless rain persisted even the next day. We had scheduled a 6 AM safari in Bansbari; however, we couldn’t leave until 8 when the rain tapered off. Armed with telephoto lenses and binoculars, we set off in a hoodless jeep. As we entered the forest premises, a vast grassland greeted us. Generally dotted with rhinos, deer and elephants grazing, the grassland remained empty due to the downpour.
Soon, it started to drizzle. With no possibility of animal or bird sighting, we decided to head to the Buraburi Watchtower. Famous for sightings, the surrounding grassland remained vacant. As the rain started to gain momentum, a wild water buffalo arrived, donning its spectacular horns. We could spot a few birds such as Red Collared Dove. A group of langurs remained perched on a nearby tree to evade the rain.
As the rain dragged on, we left the watchtower for Mathanguri. Once a forest bungalow located by the Manas River, it has now been converted into a wildlife museum. We spent some time here learning about the conservation efforts in Manas. After sipping steaming tea, we decided to return as it continued to rain. On our way back, we came across a solitary rhino having his fill of food. A few kilometres ahead, a tusker, drenched in rain and mud, appeared before us.
As luck would have it, the rain stopped in the afternoon, and the sun came out. After lunch, we headed out for the next safari. At the outset, we saw a lone tusker playing gleefully with mud. Afterwards, we spotted numerous varieties of birds such as Ruddy Kingfisher, Blue Throated Barbet, White Rumped Shama, White Throated Bulbul, Crescent Serpent Eagle, Hoopoe, and so on. Many capped langurs were jumping around. We also saw a herd of Gaur with adorable calves. We also spotted two rhinos and one mammoth tusker on our way out. The rain had dampened the morning safari; however, the afternoon safari gave us quite memorable wildlife encounters.
Day 3:
Fortunately, the weather cleared up. Our destination was Royal Manas National Park of Bhutan, which is reached by navigating the Bansbari range. The wildlife encounter started with a spirited Malayan Giant Squirrel. Along with lots of birds, we also saw a herd of elephants, a monitor lizard, and wild water buffaloes.
After the necessary permits were done, we entered the Royal Manas. As we glided through the winding roads, we came across many Great Indian Hornbills. The majestic birds were a sight to behold. We also caught a faint glimpse of the elusive Rufous-necked Hornbill.
While returning, we spotted a mom rhino grazing along with her baby. A group of spotted deer was also nibbling grass nearby.
Day 4:
The weather was once again going downhill. We had planned only a morning safari in Bhuyanpara as our train was scheduled in the evening. We spotted many elephants and wild water buffaloes here. Also, various riverine birds such as Red Wattled Lapwing, Waterfowls, Blue-eared Kingfisher, Egrets and Cormorants. We also caught a glimpse of the iconic Bengal Florican in flight.
IMPORTANT FAQS:
Best time to visit Manas National Park:
Every year, from the end of January to March, the forest authorities use controlled fires to burn the grasslands. This is an essential measure to manage the wildlife. It clears the aged vegetation thus paving way for the growth of new tender grasses, upon which the herbivores feast. It also prevents the tall shrubs and trees from encroaching upon the grasslands. As the tall elephant grasses are cleared, this period calls for clear visibility for animal sightings, especially hordes of rhinos and elephants.
However, if you’re planning to chase tigers, plan your visit around October-November. These months are regarded as ideal for spotting the big cats.
For birding, winter is the best time in Manas.
The forest remains closed in the monsoon, reopening in the second half of October.
Accommodation in Manas:
Manas has a handful of hotels and homestays. The ones lining near the gate of Bansbari range are the pricier ones for obvious reasons. They are also the best in terms of hospitality. Look out for The Smiling Tusker Elephant Camp, Musa Jungle Retreat, Florican Jungle Cottage, and The Sikhiri Cottages. The Bansbari Lodge of Assam Tourism Development Corporation is also a good option.
We stayed in The Smiling Tusker Elephant Camp, a community-based eco-tourism initiative. It provides cottage tents, machan tents as well as outdoor tents for the more adventurous souls. We loved the warmth of the staff, and the food was lip-smacking.
Food in Manas:
You won’t find any decent restaurants in Manas. So, opt for the hotels with a diner. Along with rooms, don’t forget to check the reviews for food before booking a hotel.
How to book a safari in Manas:
You can book safaris online from the official website of Manas National Park. Moreover, the resorts generally have their own army of guides and safari jeeps. It’s more convenient to arrange safaris with the hotels.
Number of safaris recommended:
In Manas, safaris are available for morning and afternoon slots. One trip continues for around 6 hours. You can go for 3 trips in Bansbari range, and 1 in Bhuyanpara. Skip Panbari range as animal sightings are rare.
Keep one day aside for the Royal Manas National Park in Bhutan.
What to pack:
Go for neutral colours such as green, olive, beige, grey, or tan. Needless to say, avoid bright colours. Pack clothes that fully cover your hands and legs. Take sturdy shoes.
Bring hats and scarves to protect your hair (you’ll be travelling in hoodless jeeps). Also, windcheaters, as Manas sees unexpected rain.
